Cover Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, co-CEOs of Urban Jürgensen
Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, co-CEOs of Urban Jürgensen
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The revival gains further momentum with the release of three new Urban Jürgensen timepieces—its first new collection in over a decade
Let's shift focus from Switzerland to Denmark and discover one of the most storied Danish watch brands: Urban Jürgensen. Founded in Copenhagen in 1773, the brand was notable for its marine chronometers for the Danish Navy. In later years, its exceptional craftsmanship and Scandinavian design sensibility caught the eye of the Danish royal court, earning it the distinction of official watchmaker.
It all but disappeared in the early 20th century, until it was revived in the 1980s by Swiss watchmaker Peter Baumberger, who partnered with English watchmaker Derek Pratt to continue Urban Jürgensen’s legacy in producing high-quality, handcrafted timepieces that honoured traditional watchmaking techniques.
Read more: From the artistic to the mysterious, Franck Muller captivates with its latest collection
Above Kari Voutilainen, Andrew Rosenfield and Alex Rosenfield at the recent launch of Urban Jürgensen in Los Angeles
Kari Voutilainen, Andrew Rosenfield and Alex Rosenfield at the recent launch of Urban Jürgensen in Los Angeles
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In 2021, the Rosenfield family, led by American entrepreneur Andrew Rosenfield, acquired Urban Jürgensen. They appointed master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen as CEO, sharing the leadership role with Andrew’s son, Alex. One of the most revered figures in watchmaking, Voutilainen’s involvement is certainly cause for excitement. As an independent watchmaker, he has earned the most Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards—a total of 11, including last year's Men’s Watch Prize for the KV20i Reversed. He will lead the technical and design development of Urban Jürgensen.
”Since the 18th century, Urban Jürgensen has stood for the pursuit of horological excellence in its engineering and aesthetic fields. To return now, and to shape its next era with the same care that defined its past, is both a joy and a duty. We are creating watches that honour time—through handmaking and finishing that have a soul,” said Voutilainen.
See also: Meet Sylvain Berneron, the brainchild behind the Mirage watch
Above Vintage Urban Jürgensen timepieces
Vintage Urban Jürgensen timepieces
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THE POWER OF THREE
The Los Angeles event also unveils three new watches. First is the UJ-1 that translates the Pratt Oval Pocket Watch designed by Derek Pratt for the wrist. Created to commemorate the brand’s 250th anniversary, it features a tourbillon with a remontoir d’égalité constant force mechanism that also incorporates dead-beat seconds. The finishing is exquisite, ranging from Grain d'orge guilloché for the main dial to Clous de Paris decoration for the small seconds counter. It is available in three references, each limited to 25 pieces: 39.5mm platinum with silver dial, platinum with grey dial, and rose gold with silver dial.
Read more: Ming Thein on forming the Alternative Horological Alliance with J.N. Shapiro and Fleming
Above Urban Jürgensen Pratt Oval Pocket Watch is the inspiration for the new UJ-1 wristwatch
Urban Jürgensen Pratt Oval Pocket Watch is the inspiration for the new UJ-1 wristwatch
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Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 in platinum with silver dial
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The double wheel natural escapement is the key feature in UJ-2 and UJ-3. Invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet, and modernised by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen, the double wheel natural escapement comprises two escape wheels that deliver energy directly to the balance wheel without the need for a pallet fork. Despite the complexity of the mechanism, the UJ-2 with its off-centre seconds counter is not a limited edition, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to blaze its own trail. It is available in 39mm platinum or rose gold.
Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 in platinum
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UJ-3 is a perpetual calendar created by Voutilainen in collaboration with Andreas Strehler who was responsible for integrating a precise moon phase indication to work seamlessly with the rest of the calendar displays. Aesthetically elegant despite a busy dial, the seconds counter also indicates the date with the help of a separate hand. As with previous models, the UJ-3 is offered in platinum or rose gold, housed in a 39mm case.
Above Urban Jürgensen UJ-3 in rose gold
Urban Jürgensen UJ-3 in rose gold
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
