Cover Joshua Shapiro, Ming Thein, and Thomas Fleming, the founders of the Alternative Horological Alliance
Joshua Shapiro, Ming Thein, and Thomas Fleming, the founders of the Alternative Horological Alliance
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The partners aim “to support and promote independent watchmaking beyond the established, conventional structures”
There is strength in numbers—a trio of independent watch brands, namely Horologer Ming, Fleming and J.N. Shapiro, has formed the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA) to pool resources together and grow beyond the individual constraints. The announcement was made recently at Geneva Watch Days by the respective brand founders Tatler’s AMI 2023 honouree Ming Thein, Thomas Fleming, and Joshua Shapiro.
The partnership feels natural given that the founders share many similarities. They were collectors before they became watch entrepreneurs, they operate outside of Switzerland, and they bring a fresh and unconventional take on luxury watches.
Ming is a Malaysian luxury watch brand founded in 2017 to fill the gap between an entry-level piece and splurging on a super luxury watch. Earlier this year, Fleming launched its first watch, Series 1, featuring a movement by Jean-François Mojon from Chronode and a dial by Kari Voutilainen’s Comblémine. Like Fleming, J.N. Shapiro is also an American brand known for its engine-turned guilloché dial patterns.
To illustrate the AHA’s purpose, the partners revealed their first official collaborative project, a tantalum bracelet made by J.N. Shapiro, based on a Ming design, and compatible with all three partner watches.
Above The tantalum bracelet made by J.N. Shapiro and based on a MING design that fits watches by Fleming, J.N Shapiro and MING
The tantalum bracelet made by J.N. Shapiro and based on a MING design that fits watches by Fleming, J.N Shapiro and MING
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Tatler GMT got on the line with Ming to find out more about AHA.
What is the catalyst for the formation of AHA?
Firstly, the founders are friends, meaning we have been sharing support and frustrations. As all of us are based outside Switzerland, we have a lot of shared experience of industry resistance. We then realised that each brand has something to bring to the table whether it is design, machining, or marketing. We thought it made sense to fomalise an alliance for a more meaningful cooperation. The more we thought about it, it became clear that there was more to gain than any possible risk of market cannibalisation. We'd rather ‘lose’ a customer to a friend than a competitor.
I would like to help raise collectors' confidence by establishing a more robust and a more connected entity—such as a stronger service network—and AHA allows us to achieve this faster than individually.
Why did you choose to partner with Fleming and J.N. Shapiro?
As mentioned, Josh, Thomas and James (Kong, COO of Fleming) have been friends for some time; we trust them. They have their strengths and are new independent brands; it’s easier to collaborate with people with similar backgrounds. I admire their hard work and they make great watches. There is a lot of mutual respect.
See also: 3 independent Japanese watchmakers nominated for GPHG 2024
Above The Alternative Horological Alliance was officially launched at Geneva Watch Days 2024
The Alternative Horological Alliance was officially launched at Geneva Watch Days 2024
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Why is it necessary to have this partnership?
The partnership would allow us to grow faster than would be possible individually, not just by sharing knowledge and doing more collaborative events, but also by giving us collective bargaining power with our suppliers. For example, if we want access to the same movement, we might be able to get better pricing or earlier delivery.
We also have access to internal capabilities, such as Shapiro’s in-house precision machine.
AHA empowers its members to work in a sustainable and enjoyable way. Although we are all in this for business, there are easier ways to make money than watchmaking. That’s why having a peer group is essential to keep the passion alive.
What is the long-term plan?
We would like to be able to mentor new brands and take care of a lot of the supply chain internally—or through trusted mutual partners. Big groups are buying up critical suppliers and closing off access to small independents—case and dial-making are two good examples. We aim to retain access by achieving critical mass or by bringing some of those companies into AHA.
How will AHA cultivate the growth of independent watchmaking?
Simply by helping those outside the ‘traditional’ industry in whatever way we can. Many doors stay closed if you’re not Swiss—a lesson all brands have learned the hard way. We hope future members can avoid these frustrations, or that together we can find ways around them. We also aim to show that success is possible for brands outside the ‘traditional’ industry and that collectively, we hold significance and influence.
Above Ming Thein at the launch of AHA in Geneva
Ming Thein at the launch of AHA in Geneva
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
