“Green seal” on the dial: When watch brands join hands for the environment

It is well known that gold mining, long associated with luxury, is among the industries with the gravest environmental tolls. To put it simply: every gold ring produced generates up to 20 tonnes of waste. That stark reality marked the starting point for many watchmakers’ efforts to evolve, with brands demonstrating their commitment through more responsible sourcing of materials.

Chopard, renowned for bold and decisive action, was one of the earliest to pledge that, from July 2018 onwards, only ethically sourced gold and diamonds would be used in its creations. Their approach is firm: every material must be fully traceable and comply with rigorous ethical standards—namely the RJC CoC for gold and the Kimberley Process for diamonds—across all of the Swiss family-owned maison’s production.

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This commitment has only deepened over time. In 2019, Chopard joined the CGWG to monitor coloured gemstones, while introducing Lucent steel composed of at least 70 per cent recycled content. The brand’s steady efforts were recognised with a win at GPHG 2023 in the debut category: Innovation Towards the Environment. “It was not an easy path, but it was definitely the right path,” affirmed Caroline Scheufele, Artistic Director and Co-President of Chopard, to the press.

Following Chopard, a number of brands have made similar moves. Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Cartier have all pledged to use ethically sourced, conflict-free gold and gemstones in their creations. Others have gone further still, embracing lab-grown diamonds such as Breitling with the Super Chronomat Automatic 38 and TAG Heuer with the Carrera Plasma, or pioneering recycled materials. Panerai, for instance, unveiled the Submersible eLAB-ID, a concept timepiece composed of 98.6 per cent recycled content, first introduced in 2021.

The list of brands adopting sustainable materials continues to grow. Oris has launched the Oris X Bracenet, with a dial made from cast-off fishing nets retrieved from the ocean, the same type of material Ulysse Nardin employed for the case of its Ocean Race Diver. Though the conversation is still evolving, there is no doubt that recycled metals, including gold and steel, are becoming more widely used in high-end watchmaking. Even industry giants such as Rolex are now openly incorporating recycled gold and platinum into their timepieces.

Sustainability today encompasses far more than ethical sourcing or material alternatives. For brands with legacies that extend beyond decades and into generations, it requires a more comprehensive approach. And for many of these watchmakers, the responsibility reaches far beyond the atelier, to the polar caps, to the sea beds, and to the heart of our natural world.

Since 2013, Omega has been working with the GoodPlanet Foundation on two projects in North and South Sulawesi, Indonesia. These initiatives focus on strengthening marine biodiversity and involving local communities in climate action. Partial funding comes from the sale of Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GoodPlanet GMT, with proceeds supporting the restoration of fragile marine ecosystems, raising environmental awareness and advancing sustainable development.

That same year, Carl F. Bucherer partnered with the Manta Trust, a UK-based conservation organisation dedicated to protecting manta rays in more than 20 countries. Chopard, too, has looked to the natural world, founding the Eagle Wings Foundation to preserve the Alpine environment through the sale of its Alpine Eagle collection.

Elsewhere, Zenith is challenging the norms. In collaboration with Nona Source, LVMH’s surplus fabric resale platform, it has produced eco-conscious straps for its Defy Midnight and Chronomaster lines. The brand also introduced Zenith Icons, a series of restored vintage models from its own archives. And it has taken its commitment a step further as an official partner of Extreme E, the electric off-road racing championship. “We refuse to collaborate with any carmaker that does not commit to sustainable development,” declared CEO Julien Tornare in 2022. A daring stance—its long-term impact remains to be seen—but one that continues to inspire.

“One hand can’t clap, so it makes the most noise.” It is with this spirit that more and more watch brands are launching and joining collective sustainability efforts. Notable among these is the Watch and Jewellery 2030 Initiative, unveiled by Cartier and the Kering Group in April 2023. Among the 25 participating maisons are Chanel, Gucci, IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre, all pledging to implement the United Nations’ 17 Sustainable Development Goals. That same year, Chopard joined SteelZero, a network initiated by the Climate Group and made up of more than 40 members. Their shared goal: to push markets and policies globally towards more responsible steel sourcing and production.

Throughout the brand stories of luxury watchmakers, whether they are emerging names established over recent decades or venerable maisons with centuries of heritage, the interplay between tradition and forward vision remains constant. What lies ahead is closely linked to how we care for our planet. As Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, remarked while accepting the GPHG award in 2023: “I think the most wonderful thing about our efforts is that many other companies have responded. Because, at the end of the day, it’s very simple: we only have one planet.” His words were not just about a single brand, but a call to the entire watch industry and far beyond.

This article was adapted from the original piece published in Tatler, Nha Tap Tinh Hoa, Vol. 7

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