Cover Franck Muller continues to demonstrate that a bold identity and pioneering spirit remain central to winning the hearts of collectors

From classic watchmaking craftsmanship to the burgeoning world of personalisation in haute horlogerie, Franck Muller continues to demonstrate that a bold identity and pioneering spirit remain central to winning the hearts of collectors.

The first days of April 2025 once again draw the attention of watch enthusiasts worldwide to Switzerland, where hundreds of watchmakers unveil their latest timepieces, setting new records and shaping the future of one of the most refined artisanal industries. Taking its place in this current, Franck Muller, the brand long revered as the “Master of Complications” in high-end timekeeping, unveiled a selection of creations as technically impressive as they are visually captivating, all within the World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie (WPHH) held at Watchland, the maison’s emblematic headquarters in Geneva. In an exclusive conversation during WPHH 2025, CEO Nicholas Rudaz shared his reflections on the Vietnamese market, prevailing industry trends, and the brand’s ongoing efforts to cultivate a global community of collectors.

See more: Franck Muller and the pride expressed through the art of skeletonisation

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Above Nicholas Rudaz, CEO, Franck Muller

Over the past year, I have seen Franck Muller place greater emphasis on the Asian and Southeast Asian markets, with the opening of its largest store in Asia in Kuala Lumpur and a flagship boutique in Vietnam. One year on from the striking debut in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, could you share your impressions of this market?

Over the past year, we have witnessed notable growth in the Vietnamese market. The reception to our boutique in central Ho Chi Minh City has been overwhelmingly positive, affirming our confidence in the potential of this energetic and fast-evolving market. One particularly exciting trend has been the rising demand for diamond-set watches, not only among women, as seen traditionally, but increasingly among male collectors as well. This appetite for bold and expressive luxury has been clearly reflected in the popularity of the Vanguard Rose Skeleton collection, which remains a favourite in Vietnam.

Collectors here clearly possess a sharp eye for craftsmanship and a deep appreciation for individuality. We are proud to contribute to the growing diversity of high-end watch connoisseurs in Vietnam.

From your perspective, do you notice any differences in Vietnamese clients’ preferences compared to those in the wider region and globally? Have there been shifts in collecting habits or purchasing behaviour?

Drawing from our experience in other markets and from the brand’s own history in Vietnam, some distinctive customer preferences certainly stand out. Notably, we observe a 60-40 split in favour of diamond watches for men, an inversion of the global norm, where these pieces tend to appeal more to women. This is a striking trend, revealing a rising confidence in personal expression and a deeper engagement with the artistry of fine jewelled timepieces.

Tatler Asia
Above Franck Muller store in Ho Chi Minh City

Since partnering with a new distributor in Vietnam, we have also seen the rise of a more discerning and informed generation of clients. These individuals not only value the refined craftsmanship and intricate complications of our timepieces, but also take a particular interest in the brand’s heritage and legacy. Through its audacious and singular design language, Franck Muller has resonated deeply with customers who seek distinction. These promising developments further underscore the importance of the Vietnamese market in our global growth strategy, and they inspire us to continue innovating, bringing our Vietnamese clients experiences that are both unexpected and deeply memorable.

Here we are, in Geneva, right where the pulse of the luxury watch industry is at its strongest. With nearly two decades of experience in the luxury watch industry, how do you assess the future trends in fine watchmaking, based on what was introduced earlier this year?

I can confidently say that the future of fine watchmaking remains firmly anchored in tradition, yet is increasingly propelled by innovation. What we’ve witnessed this year, both at Franck Muller and across the wider landscape, signals a clear move towards more purposeful creation. Collectors and connoisseurs are now seeking pieces that not only demonstrate mechanical ingenuity but also carry emotional depth.

Tatler Asia
Above Franck Muller Vanguard Rose Skeleton

One prominent direction we’ve observed is the growing interplay between haute horlogerie and personalisation. Today’s clients want to see themselves reflected in their timepieces through distinctive materials, bespoke finishes, and artistic flourishes that speak to their individuality. There’s also renewed interest in blending traditional crafts (métiers d’art) such as engraving, enamelling, and gem-setting with sophisticated complications. This revival of craftsmanship reaches to the very essence of haute horlogerie and reaffirms our dedication to enhancing the emotional resonance of every watch.

This year’s WPHH Week once again affirms that haute horlogerie is not only thriving; it is evolving with remarkable vitality.

From a collector’s perspective, luxury brands often place a lot of emphasis on community building, something we greatly value. So how do brands nurture and grow their collector communities?

From a collector’s perspective, cultivating a strong and engaged community is essential, and at Franck Muller we believe that this begins with trust. Entrusting our marketing efforts to local distribution partners is a considered approach, rooted in our belief in the power of close, collaborative relationships.

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Above Franck Muller store space in Ho Chi Minh City

By partnering with those who understand the nuances of each market, we ensure every initiative connects meaningfully with its audience. This approach helps us develop a devoted collector base with genuine passion. We place great importance on creating these bonds, whether through media engagement, personalised in-store experiences, or thoughtfully curated events. These intimate gatherings do more than showcase the art of watchmaking; they foster a spirit of belonging and camaraderie among collectors who share the same passion.

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Images: Franck Muller, DAFC

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