Know how Louis Vuitton’s expert watchmakers showcase the art of horological mastery in its purest form with the latest Tambour from Jean Arnault himself
With help from movement specialist La Fabrique du Temps, Louis Vuitton has been quietly carving a place for itself in the realm of haute horlogerie. This year, under the watchful eyes of Jean Arnault, the 24-year-old watch director at Louis Vuitton, the French maison is ready to make a greater impact, starting with the flagship Tambour collection that has undergone a buzz-worthy makeover.
Arnault explains: “Louis Vuitton launched the Tambour in 2002 with distinctive features such as a thick, round case, strong lugs and the ‘Louis Vuitton’ words around the edge. The watch has benefited enormously from the expertise of La Fabrique du Temps, which stepped up the design game on collections like Spin Time and Carpe Diem, and by contributing one-of-a-kind models, grand complications and automata. This expertise in haute horlogerie, led by a team that has grown and strengthened over the years, especially in artistic crafts, has been infused into the new Tambour.”
The most discernible change is the drum-shaped case, which is slimmer and smaller at 40mm in diameter. Noticeably, it now comes with an integrated bracelet and the absence of lugs. “It is a first for Louis Vuitton and without a doubt, the most distinctive feature as well as the most complex,” Aranult notes at the Tambour launch in Paris. “We have paid particular attention to it, examining every detail and aiming for the best solutions in terms of size, comfort, finishing as well as its curve and tapering.”
Indeed, the slender and curvaceous bracelet links ensure a comfortable fit that could rival the softest leather strap. “Previously, the curve of the Tambour’s bracelet began 9/10th of the way from the case, with the entire thickness visible. The new version starts at 2/3rd, concealing a third of the thickness under the wrist. For the case, the last Tambour was 13mm thick; it’s now down to only 8mm in height,” says Arnault. A triple-blade folding clasp is a nice finishing touch to the overall pared-down design.
The crown, in a shape that echoes the case, is fluted for a tactile sensation during winding. The watch face features 3D hour numerals and markers crafted in gold and diamond-polished for optimal shine. The new openworked, faceted hands complete the harmonious design.