Geneva Watch Days 2026: the best new watches

It is housed in a 40mm stainless steel case designed by Eric Giroud, with a choice of pink (reserved MB&F Tribe and Friends) or blue (available for raffle) dial inspired directly by Calabrese’s creations. The caseback reveals a spinning rotor, through which the sentence “Il est assez aisé de plaire aux autres, bien plus ardu d’être fier de soi” (“It is fairly easy to please others, far more difficult to be proud of oneself”) appears progressively as the movement rotates. 

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Corum unveils first Admiral collection in ceramic

The Admiral has been enriched with ceramic, a material lighter than steel but more resistant to scratches. This marks the latest design evolution of the nautical-inspired Admiral, which just had its signature pennants integrated into the trapezoidal indexes. The new Admiral also comes with an integrated bracelet, another first for the model, also in ceramic.

Powered by self-winding calibres with three-day power reserve, they feature a gilded, grained rotor engraved with “The Key of Time Since 1955” and the Corum Key emblem. 

Atelier Wen introduces the first Swiss-made dial

Officially unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, Atelier Wen’s collaboration with Massena LAB centres around a dial of intricate hand-tremblage engraving on solid 18k gold, marking the first time an Atelier Wen watch features a Swiss-made dial.

One of the most demanding traditional decorative crafts in watchmaking, tremblage is created by working a graver across the surface in a continuous trembling motion. It is an incredibly meticulous process requiring confident, steady hands, resulting in a finely textured, frost-like surface. 

The Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò comes with two dial variants: white gold (limited to 10 pieces) and rose gold (limited to 40). The layout recalls a California dial, but instead of the traditional mix of Roman and Arabic numerals, it uses Arabic numerals from 10 to two o’clock and Chinese calligraphy from four to eight o’clock. The outer ring is finely engraved with the classic Chinese huiwen border. 

Ming develops a novel mechanism for DST adjustment

Ming turns 9 this year, and to mark the milestone, it has created a new travel watch with a first-of-its-kind, patent-pending system to adjust for daylight saving time (DST). The 57.05 Comet features two city rings. The inner ring displays cities that do not observe DST, while cities that do are displayed on a separate outer ring. One click of the latter rotates these cities forward by one hour.  A small ‘DST On’ window turns red when DST is active; rotating the ring back returns the window to silver, indicating DST is off. 

As with any Ming watch, the dial is its own highlight: a multilayered blue surface with overlapping grids creates an animated interference Ming dubs the “Comet Tail”. At night, the 24-hour scale glows blue for daytime hours and orange for nighttime hours. The hands are coated in blue Super-LumiNova X1 while the hour markers are filled with Ming Polar White luminous material.

Limited to 200 pieces, the 40mm stainless steel case is paired with either a cobalt blue goat leather strap by Jean Rousseau Paris or the Ming Polymesh titanium bracelet.

Alto reiterates its sci-fi chic aesthetics 

The striking architectural appearance of Alto’s ART 02 is conceived by creative director Raphaël Abeillo, a former designer at Cartier. Crafted as one uninterrupted form, the titanium case, bracelet, and clasp merge to deliver a smooth, cohesive aesthetic. The dial features multiple octagonal lines, complemented by a flange that incorporates the hour markers and minute track. Skeletonised hands lend it visual lightness and legibility.  

Equally fascinating is the self-winding ART 02 calibre, developed with Cercle des Horlogers. Equipped with a micro-rotor, its unorthodox shape is designed to complement the lines of the case. Even more unusual is how it operates the seconds hand—it turns it counter-clockwise, a technical signature of Alto.
Item 13 | General Equally fascinating is the self-winding ART 02 calibre, developed with Cercle des Horlogers. Equipped with a micro-rotor, its unorthodox shape is designed to complement the lines of the case. Even more unusual is how it operates the seconds hand—it turns it counter-clockwise, a technical signature of Alto.   

Czapek & Cie Place Vendôme Complicité

Limited to 10 pieces, the Place Vendôme Complicité now places the signature pair of balance wheels beating in opposite directions against a dial of glacier blue. The cool tone is matched with two sapphire bridges, which are set with rubies in gold chatons, to reveal the full gear train on the dial. The model was born of the friendship between CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel and German-born master watchmaker Bernhard Lederer.

Breitling pays tribute to Miles Davis

Jazz legend Miles Davis owned a Breitling ref. 806 Mk5. On the centennial of his birthday, Breitling has made the Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 in his honour. The watch features certain design elements of Davis’ watch, including a 41mm case, a reverse panda dial, vintage-inspired cream-coloured Super-Luminova, and the “Twin Jet” logo. In 1956, the Navitimer was exclusively developed for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, featuring the winged logo on the dial. To distinguish it from the civilian watches, Breitling swapped it for the Twin Jet emblem. Davis' watch was the first to feature this signature.

The Davis tribute timepiece, of which only 500 pieces will be produced, is powered by manual-winding Calibre B09, a nod to an era before the arrival of automatic watches. It comes with either a brown calf leather strap or an Air Racer bracelet, refined with hinged links near the clasp for better comfort.  

Louis Moinet goes to space

Well, not literally, but the Moon Meteor does incorporate three rare meteor rocks. The first is NWA 13925 from Mars, more valuable per gram than platinum and gold combined. There is also Jbilet Winselwan, a carbonaceous meteorite. Last but not least, the Sahara 97093, which contains microdiamonds of interstellar origin. They are visible on the dial, designed to appear as if they are travelling at high speed across it. 

The dial is meticulously hand-painted to evoke the colours of the nebula. The Moon at the centre also displays the lunar cycle with two rare meteorite fragments: grey-marbled Gadamis 005 (linked to Apollo 16) for the full moon and the intense black Dhofar 457 for the new moon. A hand-painted astronaut appliqué serves as a fixed reference point to indicate the current phase as the disc rotates beneath him. The Moon Meteor is limited to 12 pieces. 

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