Cover Bernhard Lederer (far right) in his workshop with his watchmakers
Bernhard Lederer (far right) in his workshop with his watchmakers
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Bernhard Lederer champions haute horlogerie through his unique blend of traditional watchmaking principles and modern innovations
To many, Bernhard Lederer may be a whisper rather than a roar in the watch world. But for connoisseurs and collectors, his work is legendary. Early in his career, Lederer was best known for his orbital tourbillon—a highly advanced version of the complication featuring a tourbillon cage circling the dial while a balance rotates within it. This double-axis choreography not only improves isochronism but also offers a mesmerising spectacle on the wrist.
Then came the Gagarin Tourbillon, created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first human spaceflight. It features a one-minute tourbillon that orbits the dial in 108 minutes, the exact duration of Yuri Gagarin’s orbit.
Above Bernhard Lederer
Bernhard Lederer
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In 2021, he joined the ranks of watchmaking luminaries such as George Daniels and F.P. Journe by successfully interpreting Breguet’s natural escapement into a viable movement for a modern wristwatch. Breguet’s natural escapement had remained largely theoretical, as the precision required exceeded the capabilities of 18th-century manufacturing.
See also: Breguet debuts a flying tourbillon
Above Lederer‘s orbital tourbillon
Lederer‘s orbital tourbillon
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Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC) builds on the same double-impulse principle but adds a constant-force mechanism and modern materials such as titanium and silicon. The result is a mechanically superlative instrument presented in a strikingly elegant package, which earned the Innovation Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2021.
In 2024, he triumphed again at GPHG, this time receiving the Chronometry Prize for the Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer. As its name suggests, the watch obtained certifications from three prestigious observatories: Besançon, France; Glashütte, Germany; and Geneva, Switzerland.
This year, Lederer introduced a smaller CIC in 39mm, as well as the CIC 39mm Longitude, a follow-up to the CIC 44 Triple Certified Observatory.
Above Lederer CIC 39mm Open Series
Lederer CIC 39mm Open Series
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Born in Baden-Württemberg, Germany, Lederer, 67, discovered his calling during his teenage years after stumbling upon technical books on escapements in a library. In 1976, he apprenticed at the Wuppertal Clock & Watch Museum, learning centuries of tradition, restoring clocks and watches, and teaching his hands the old ways.
It is no surprise, then, that his early creations were mainly clocks, most notably one with a gravity escapement so precise it requires a calendar correction only once every 3,200 years. His talent was recognised with a membership in the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) in 1986.
Read more: Panerai flexes its technical mastery with an astronomical clock
Above Lederer CIC 39mm Longitude
Lederer CIC 39mm Longitude
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In 2000, Lederer settled in Switzerland and founded BLU Source du Temps SA—and later, Lederer Manufacture—in Neuchâtel. Through this facility, he fosters a collaborative, artisanal environment where exceptional horological skills are preserved, passed on, and continually advanced, blending tradition with innovation.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
