Dior entices with the bold allure of the new Chiffre Rouge collection

The Chiffre Rouge comes in a tempting red dial and a haute horlogerie version

It’s good that Dior keeps the momentum going for the Chiffre Rouge watches. More than a fashion watch, the collection is a savvy House interpretation of fine watchmaking that extends beyond its exquisite jewellery timepieces for women.

Conceived by then-menswear creative director Hedi Slimane in 2004, the Chiffre Rouge was Dior’s foray into automatic watches for men. After some time, it was inexplicably discontinued but it made a comeback last year on its 20th anniversary. The reintroduction paid a nod to its original aesthetics, from the asymmetrical case (there’s a slight protrusion on the right side) and the crown a 4 o’clock, to the accents in red, a favourite of Monsieur Dior who likened it to “the colour of life.”

In terms of engineering prowess, Dior relied on the expertise of its well-established sister brands within the LVMH Group from Zenith to La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton to drive Chiffre Rouge.

Above Dior revived the Chiffre Rouge, a watch collection created for men, last year on its 20th anniversary

Dior revived the Chiffre Rouge, a watch collection created for men, last year on its 20th anniversary

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To be sure, the Chiffre Rouge is replete with references from the House of Dior. The latest collection, in 38mm time-only and 41mm chronograph, comes with a gradient red dial embossed with the Dior cannage motif of interlaced diagonal and vertical lines that is also found on the iconic Lady Dior bag. This motif is also featured on the rubber strap and the balance wheel.

The date represents another homage to Monsieur Dior—his favourite number ‘8’ is highlighted in red.

The cases, sleek in black DLC-coated steel, house reliable automatic movements. The 38mm model houses the CD.002 caliber, based on a Sellita, while the chronograph features the CD.001, a modified version of Zenith’s El Primero. If you like a little bling on your wrist, the 38mm has a version subtly set with diamonds.

Above The asymmetrical case with a notched upper left side and enlarged, tapered right side of the Dior Chiffre Rouge in 38mm

The asymmetrical case with a notched upper left side and enlarged, tapered right side of the Dior Chiffre Rouge in 38mm

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Above Dior Chiffre Rouge 41mm chronograph

Dior Chiffre Rouge 41mm chronograph

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The collection is also enriched with two new flying tourbillon watches rendered from case to strap in grey. One of them is set with hundreds of diamonds for the ultimate indulgence. The movement was developed at La Fabrique du Temps where the Louis Vuitton Tambour timepieces are also manufactured.

Above Dior Chiffre Rouge Tourbillon Grey in white gold and set with diamonds

Dior Chiffre Rouge Tourbillon Grey in white gold and set with diamonds

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Dior Chiffre Rouge

Brian Cheong

Senior Editor, Watches & Jewellery, Tatler Malaysia

Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.