Cover Ressence Type 8 Daniel Engelberg 1, one of the new independent watches on our radar now
Ressence Type 8 Daniel Engelberg 1, one of the new independent watches on our radar now
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From an acclaimed Malaysian brand to an obscure French outfit, these are the independent watches that should be on your radar now
Independent watches have grown in prominence in the last couple of years, flexing their creative autonomy to a growing audience of enthusiasts and collectors hungry for a compelling alternative to the major players. Despite their limited resources—and unburdened by corporate red tape and heritage—these horological rebels have carved out a distinct niche for themselves. This year alone has had its fair share of attractive independent watches, ranging from high-profile releases from MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. to relatively low-key, but no less exciting, unveilings from Louis Moinet and Singer Reimagined.
Read more: How Arnold & Son’s history shapes its modern identity
Here is a selection of new independent watches that we love right now. Are they also on your radar?
Ressence Type 8 Daniel Engelberg
Ressence Type 8 Daniel Engelberg 1 in pink
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Contemporary German artist David Engelberg’s work seamlessly bridges sculptural form and abstract painting. His geometric patterns are deceptively flat but evoke three-dimensionality through clever use of colour, form and structure. Engelberg has now lent his talent to a new interpretation of the Ressence Type 8, distinctive for its signature rotating dial system (Ressence Orbital Convex System) that offers only hour and minute display via rotating discs that appear to gloat beneath the domed sapphire crystal.
The collaboration has produced two iterations—in pink and turquoise—that aptly recall Engelberg’s unique style. Aptly reflecting Engelberg’s unique aesthetic, they come in matching rubber straps with an additional leather strap for formal occasions—sure to spark conversation no matter where they appear. Limited to 40 pieces each, and available exclusively at The Hour Glass.
See also: Urban Jürgensen officially relaunches under the stewardship of Kari Voutilainen
MING 37.02 Ghost
Above MING 37.02 Ghost is made of pure titanium a.k.a. grade 2 titanium
MING 37.02 Ghost is made of pure titanium a.k.a. grade 2 titanium
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Made of pure titanium, MING has crafted a watch (specifically the case, dial and buckle) that is far lighter and more ethereal in appearance than conventional titanium watches forged out of the grade 5 version of the material. Since pure titanium cannot be polished, the surfaces are finished with radial and circular brushing, but the effect is remarkably “polished”—shiny and subtly shadowed, hence its name “Ghost”. Tests have proven that it is water-resistant up to 260m, but MING plays it safe by having the official specification at 100m. It is powered by Sellita SW300 with custom skeletonised bridhes and plates in anthracite.
Read more: Ming Thein on designs that reward observation
Moritz Grossmann Art Edition Max Frintrop
Moritz Grossmann Art Edition Max Frintrop in rose gold
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Another German artist has been tasked to interpret his art on a watch—this time, painter Max Frintrop for Glashütte watchmaker Moritz Grossmann. They collaborated on 16 unique dials created from the top layer of Frintrop’s studio floor, richly coated with paint accumulated over the years. Frintrop studied under Albert Oehlen and is part of a new generation of abstract painters working on a monumental scale. His work explores the tension between order and chaos, using light and colour to capture the intangible nature of time and fleeting moments.
It posed a tremendous challenge removing a very tiny portion of the paint layer from the floor and then flattening it on the underside to be placed on the base of the dial. Frintrop explains: “As if by magic, the surface of the floor was reduced to a thickness of half a millimetre in the dial, and yet the top layer of dried paint resembles a lunar surface covered in craters—a symbol of both transience and endurance. This portrays the materialisation of metaphysical questions, which we also intensively deliberate in art.”
Available exclusively at Sincere Fine Watches, there is a choice of rose gold or steel case.
In case you missed it: Tatler GMT and SHH host an evening of fine watchmaking with Moritz Grossmann
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green
Above Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green
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The Tonda PF invites you to enjoy the beauty of the PF 777 calibre, an automatic movement whose 192 components are visible on the dial and the caseback. The openworked bridges are adorned in Slate Green, a hue inspired by the Le Corbusier colour palette. Sandblasted and satin-finished details lend them depth and brilliance. Available in 40mm stainless steel with platinum 950 knurled bezel, it is limited to 50 pieces.
See also: Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is radiant in Verzasca Green
Sartory Billard SB06 Flying Tourbillon SHH Edition Malaysia
Above Sartory Billard SB06 Flying Tourbillon SHH Edition Malaysia with batik aventurine dial (left) and green jade dial
Sartory Billard SB06 Flying Tourbillon SHH Edition Malaysia with batik aventurine dial (left) and green jade dial
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Founded in 2015 by Paris-based designer Armand Billard, Sartory Billard has become a standout name in contemporary watchmaking, blending French design flair with Swiss precision. It is focused on elevating the possibilities of customisations, often working closely with prospective owners on crafting timepieces of distinct character. For instance, it has produced eight exclusive watches based on SB06 Flying Tourbillon for Sincere Fine Watches, two for each region (namely Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and Taiwan) where the luxury watch retailer has a strong presence.
The SB06 Flying Tourbillon features a novel 24-hour time display with two hour hands—one with the Sun at the tip for daytime indication, and the other the Moon for nighttime display. The Sincere regional editions take their cues from the respective countries’ unique identities and cultural norms. One of the Malaysia editions features an aventurine dial decorated with a batik motif inspired by our national flower, the bunga raya or hibiscus, while the other celebrates the good luck charm of jade in glorious deep green. Available exclusively at SHH (Sincere Haute Horlogerie) Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, a purveyor of luxury independent watches in Malaysia.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
