Cover Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace earrings, clip pendant, Between the Finger ring, ring, pendant, earrings. (Photo: Estella Hanania, Van Cleef & Arpels)
Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace earrings, clip pendant, Between the Finger ring, ring, pendant, earrings. (Photo: Estella Hanania, Van Cleef & Arpels)
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The new Flowerlace collection from Van Cleef & Arpels takes the maison’s floral legacy to a modern new dimension
Flowers have been a mainstay of jewellery since time immemorial. They’ve been a steady, beautiful presence in Van Cleef & Arpels, from the bold blooms of Rose de Noël to the sleek, stylised petals of Frivole. This year, alongside the exuberant colour of Fleurs d’Hawaï, the maison presents an entirely new floral interpretation.
With Flowerlace, form takes the forefront. Where other collections have focused on recreating the vibrancy of floral colour, or the delicacy of a ruffled petal, Flowerlace is all about elegant linework that conjures up the shape of a flower. It’s a collection that seems deceptively simple at first glance: sweeping, swooping lines clustered together to form a naive, almost child-like figure of a flower.
Also read: Love, legacy and leadership: Van Cleef & Arpels enters a new era under Catherine Rénier
Above Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace pendant in yellow gold and diamonds
Above Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace Between the Finger ring in yellow gold and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace pendant in yellow gold and diamonds
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“For Flowerlace, it’s totally different,” says Catherine Rénier, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels. “Here we are very abstract. It can be a flower but it could be a bow in the shape of a flower. It’s more naive, more playful and with a little more volume as well. The collection is inspired by the Silhouette clip from 1937, that has the shape of a ribbon in the form of a flower. There is an inspiration of nature combined with couture in Flowerlace.”
Above Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace jewellery collection
Above Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace jewellery collection
Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace jewellery collection
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The Van Cleef & Arpels Silhouette clips were icons of their time, introducing a radical new Art Deco flair to a time dominated by traditional floral representations. Flowerlace is doing the same, almost 100 years later. The beauty is, as ever, in the detail. Across five beautiful creations—a ring, a Between the Finger ring, a pair of earrings, a pendant, and a clip pendant that can be worn in two different ways—Van Cleef & Arpels has crafted a modern, dynamic floral collection in gleaming yellow gold and diamonds. With just two materials at their disposal, the maison’s craftsmen worked to convey the full floral feeling, using the intricate lost-wax casting technique to build detail and depth. Gently curved petals add motion; clusters of golden beads and diamonds of different sizes created volume and a delicate sense of natural asymmetry.
Above Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace pendant clip in yellow gold and diamonds
Above Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace earrings in yellow gold and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace pendant clip in yellow gold and diamonds
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“It’s a very modern look. The gold is very present,” continues Rénier. “You have the same idea of these round-shaped petals, they are heavier in a way but still light of course, because it’s open work. And the thickness of the gold is asymmetrical. The craft, and the attention to the detail, and the techniques are really to give enough volume.”
Due to their complex, curved structure, each piece is delicately hand-polished for shine—and to set off the brilliance of the diamonds, all meticulously selected according to stringent criteria. The maison’s expert gem-setters use the most precise of techniques, like beading the prongs to create a ball-like finish, to meticulously secure the stones and complement the design’s flowing lines.
“It’s a totally different view, it has a different feeling,” Rénier says, the polished Flowerlace lines shining as she plays with the pieces in front of her. This is modernity, with no sacrifice of emotion or delicacy.
Emma Chong is the Managing Editor of Tatler Malaysia, overseeing the editorial direction and vision for the print, digital and social media arms of the title. She has over 15 years experience in fashion and lifestyle publishing, and has led print and digital editorial teams at ELLE Malaysia, Time Out Kuala Lumpur, The Luxe Nomad and more.
Outside of work, Emma spends her time wrangling children (only her own) and boosting the Malaysian economy through her support of local fashion and homeware brands.
