Catherine Rénier: preserving Van Cleef & Arpels’ legacy while shaping its future

The new watch creations presented at Watches and Wonders continue the Parisian love story of the Pont des Amoureux collection. Could you tell us more about the evolution of this idea?

CR: The Pont des Amoureux was among our first “poetic” mechanisms and soon became an emblem: a love story set on a Parisian bridge, resonating across cultures and generations. Grisaille enamel captures the nocturnal charm of Paris in hues of blue and grey, heightening its dreamlike quality. To continue the narrative, we imagined new designs where the figures appear to dance beyond a cabaret stage. Four years of development and three patents were required to bring these delicate movements to life, a new chapter in the art of watchmaking animation. With the Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate, we remain in Paris, in the glow of the same sunset, though the story has gained new vibrancy.

Love seems to have always been at the heart of Van Cleef & Arpels. What does it mean to you to express love through a piece of jewellery?

CR: For me, every creation is designed to stir emotions: beauty, singular memories and, of course, love. Jewellery or treasured objects are often given at life’s defining moments, such as weddings, birthdays, and anniversaries. These occasions and emotions are inseparable from love, which remains central to every life. Our designs exist to preserve and honour such moments.

The maison was founded on the love story of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels. If you could speak to them today, what do you think they would say about leading the brand in 2025?

CR: I believe they would urge openness to the world, to learning, to constant discovery. They would champion creativity and highlight the primacy of quality, from the gemstones chosen to every detail of craftsmanship. That is their lasting spirit: true artisanship, where both heart and skill are inseparable.

Van Cleef & Arpels is celebrated for its poetic way of telling time. How does this philosophy influence how the maison defines success?

CR: We view time through a long lens. Van Cleef & Arpels pieces are not created for fleeting seasons but to endure across generations, ideally passed down within families. This is the poetry of time in both jewellery and watchmaking. It brings with it a responsibility: to uphold the highest standards of quality and artistry, so each piece may carry the maison’s message far into the future.

Social expectations often shape design; for instance, the Cadenas watch of 1935 answered the desire to tell time discreetly. What needs might inspire Van Cleef & Arpels’ next iconic creation today?

CR: I feel that what Van Cleef & Arpels offers now is a positive view of life. Our poetic mechanisms propose another way of experiencing time: emotional, playful at times, yet always imbued with the joy of living. In a world consumed by constant notifications and an ever-accelerating pace, our designs invite people to pause, to step away from their watches, and to be fully present in the moment, contemplating it in all its meaning and emotion.

Article adapted from the original feature in Tatler Vietnam, July 2025 issue

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