First introduced in 1938, the Chaîne d’ancre motif has attained cult status
One of the most iconic symbols of the house of Hermès is the Chaîne d’ancre: an oval with curved lines and a line through its middle. The name of the motif translates to “anchor chain”, which was the inspiration for the nautical design.
In 1937, Robert Dumas, a member of the Hermès family, was strolling down the coast of Normandy in France when he noticed the marine chains keeping the boats moored in place. He was inspired by the design of an object so simple yet strong, which led to the creation of the first Chaîne d’ancre bracelet in 1938.
In case you missed it: Cartier celebrates 100 years of Trinity with Jisoo, Jackson Wang and more

Above Hermès Chaîne d’ancre double rings
Since then, the motif has made its way into various Hermès creations, from its accessories to ready-to-wear and, most frequently, its jewellery. Over the years, the Maison has found new ways of interpreting the Chaîne d’ancre, most recently with creative director Pierre Hardy’s latest jewellery collection.
“Accumulating, merging and fluidifying, I explored several territories starting with the archetypal form," explained Hardy. The new Chaîne d’ancre collection is really a celebration of the anchor link, which takes on precious forms in white or rose gold, set with black spinels or blue sapphires, pavé-set with diamonds and embellished with a dazzling centre stone.

Above Hermès Chaîne d’ancre Sacs bijoux

Above Hermès Chaîne d’ancre Multichaines necklace
Hardy and his team have explored the diversity and versatility of the Chaîne d’ancre, which takes bold and graphic forms as well as more sophisticated and intricate ones. The motif takes centre stage on double rings, stretched across two or three fingers, and also appears in multiple shapes and sizes on layered chains.
One of the most interesting jewels in this collection, however, is the Sacs bijoux—a minaudière seemingly composed of a chain of Chaîne d’ancre twirled and twisted upon itself to form a shiny, precious accessory.
Discover these creations and more fresh takes on Hermès’s Chaîne d’ancre at an exhibition from February 27 to March 3, 2024, at Hermès Liat Towers, where there will be 58 pieces on display.
By appointment only, reservations can be made by calling +65 6933 3222.
Credits
Images: Hermès











