Cover Hermès Chaîne d’ancre Multichaines bracelet and necklace

First introduced in 1938, the Chaîne d’ancre motif has attained cult status

One of the most iconic symbols of the house of Hermès is the Chaîne d’ancre: an oval with curved lines and a line through its middle. The name of the motif translates to “anchor chain”, which was the inspiration for the nautical design.

In 1937, Robert Dumas, a member of the Hermès family, was strolling down the coast of Normandy in France when he noticed the marine chains keeping the boats moored in place. He was inspired by the design of an object so simple yet strong, which led to the creation of the first Chaîne d’ancre bracelet in 1938.

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Above Hermès Chaîne d’ancre double rings

Since then, the motif has made its way into various Hermès creations, from its accessories to ready-to-wear and, most frequently, its jewellery. Over the years, the Maison has found new ways of interpreting the Chaîne d’ancre, most recently with creative director Pierre Hardy’s latest jewellery collection.

“Accumulating, merging and fluidifying, I explored several territories starting with the archetypal form," explained Hardy. The new Chaîne d’ancre collection is really a celebration of the anchor link, which takes on precious forms in white or rose gold, set with black spinels or blue sapphires, pavé-set with diamonds and embellished with a dazzling centre stone.

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Above Hermès Chaîne d’ancre Sacs bijoux
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Above Hermès Chaîne d’ancre Multichaines necklace

Hardy and his team have explored the diversity and versatility of the Chaîne d’ancre, which takes bold and graphic forms as well as more sophisticated and intricate ones. The motif takes centre stage on double rings, stretched across two or three fingers, and also appears in multiple shapes and sizes on layered chains.

One of the most interesting jewels in this collection, however, is the Sacs bijoux—a minaudière seemingly composed of a chain of Chaîne d’ancre twirled and twisted upon itself to form a shiny, precious accessory.

Discover these creations and more fresh takes on Hermès’s Chaîne d’ancre at an exhibition from February 27 to March 3, 2024, at Hermès Liat Towers, where there will be 58 pieces on display.

By appointment only, reservations can be made by calling +65 6933 3222.

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Photo 1 of 6 Hermès Chaîne d’ancre bracelet
Photo 2 of 6 Hermès Chaîne d’ancre necklace
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Photo 4 of 6 Hermès Chaîne d’ancre Danaé necklace
Photo 5 of 6 Hermès Chaîne d’ancre bracelet
Photo 6 of 6 Hermès Chaîne d’ancre necklace

Credits

Images: Hermès

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Annabel Tan
Editor, Watches and Jewellery, Tatler Singapore
Tatler Asia

Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.