How Van Cleef & Arpels’ Mystery Set technique has evolved since 1933

Over the years, the Mystery Set technique has also seen several improvements and innovations—a testament to the maison’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of craftsmanship and creativity.

Starting in 1935, a new patent enabled Van Cleef & Arpels to adapting the Mystery Set technique to “isolated stones, in such a way that no trace of the setting should be visible, the stone being viewed full-face, whatever the size and shape of the stone to be set.” This meant that oval, round or pear-shaped stones could be individually secured, with no metal visible, by slightly re-cutting the original gems.

Soon after in 1936, three supplementary patents were added to Van Cleef & Arpels’s Mystery Set technique that helped to expand its application. While the technique was previously only used on flat surfaces such as powder compacts and boxes, these patents allowed the maison to apply the technique to sculpture in the round and more complex and voluminous surfaces.

The earliest example of these new applications was a 1936 brooch made up of two superimposed plant elements in yellow gold, platinum, Mystery Set rubies and diamonds. The brooch showcased the technique's adaptability to three-dimensional designs, again pushing the boundaries of what was thought possible in jewellery craftsmanship.

In 2006, Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled the Navette Mystery Set technique, which made use of oblong marquise-cut (or navette-cut) gems, with pointed extremities that brought new dimensions and volume to the jewellery pieces.

A few years later in 2010, the use of Mystery Set was expanded to include hexagonal gems for more creative expressions, and in 2012, the maison’s Palais de la Chance high jewellery collection revisited the Individual Mystery Set technique from 1936.

The latest patent added to the repertoire was for the Vitrail Mystery Set, registered in 2013, where “a decorative element including several stones [are] assembled inside a closed frame, consisting of two decorative sides.” This allows even more light to reflect off and pass through the stones, better revealing their luminosity and transparency.

Along with broadening its applications of the technique over the years, Van Cleef & Arpels also adapted the Mystery Set creations to the stylistic upheavals of the 20th century. In the post-World War II era, French elegance and savoir-faire reached new heights. As a stylistic signature of the maison, distinctive floral jewellery adorned with Mystery Set gems complemented the sweeping skirts and romanticism of Christian Dior's New Look, embodying the popular image of the "femme fleur” (flower woman).

The 1960s brought about a new era of sophistication, with Mystery Set jewellery perfectly complementing the elegance of the jet set. Floral clips adorned with sapphires, emeralds, and rubies became emblematic of the era's "cocktail jewelry," worn at glamorous society events.

With the 1970s came pivotal changes in world history and as styles and lifestyles underwent a revolution, Van Cleef & Arpels infused its Mystery Set creations with a new lightness and freedom. Twirling butterflies and blooming flowers captured the spirit of the times, reflecting a quest for liberation and self-expression.

Conversely, the 1980s saw a shift towards structured, architectural forms, mirroring the empowerment and strength of the modern woman. High jewellery, including the Mystery Set creations, followed suit, with creations characterised by symmetrical lines and dramatic sizes and dimensions.

The creations of the 1990s followed a similar trend but at the same time, Van Cleef & Arpels embarked on a journey of rediscovery, celebrating its rich heritage through reissued models and retrospective exhibitions.

In the 21st century, Van Cleef & Arpels has kept the Mystery Set creations as captivating as ever, attracting renewed interest and admiration. The maison launched a new high jewellery collection completely dedicated to the technique in 2022 called Legend of Diamonds. Each of the 25 creations was designed to showcase the maison’s style, savoir-faire and history.

Still today, every Mystery Set creation represents the culmination of years of research and innovation, showcasing the Van Cleef & Arpels's ability to capture beauty and magic in every facet. As the maison continues to write the next chapter in its illustrious history, the Mystery Set technique stands as a shining testament to its enduring legacy of creativity, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance.

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