Cover Boucheron Carte Blanche: More is More Tie the Knot brooch and hair jewel in white gold, bio‑acetate and magnesium set with diamonds (Photo: Boucheron)

From a giant gravity‑defying bow to brooches that look like iron‑on patches, and even a high‑jewellery pocket, Boucheron’s latest Carte Blanche high jewellery collection is a wild testament to the maison’s boundless creativity and technical prowess

From the depths of dull uncertainty and successive lockdowns that shrouded Paris and most of the world in 2020, a crazy idea emerged. Claire Choisne, the creative director of Boucheron, sought an escape from these tough times, and wanted to create something that would spark joy and a sense of freedom. Thus, Carte Blanche: More is More, a high jewellery collection unburdened by conventional restrictions and fuelled by the pure essence of happiness, was born. True to its name, Choisne was granted free reign to dream up the designs—a tradition  that has continued to be upheld with every new Carte Blanche collection launched yearly since.

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Above Boucheron Carte Blanche: More is More Tie the Knot brooch and hair jewel in white gold, bio‑acetate and magnesium set with diamonds (Photo: Boucheron)

In fact, Carte Blanche is more than just a high jewellery collection; it is also an act of innovation, art and rebellion—much like the pop art movement was in the 1950s. The 2021 collection, Carte Blanche: Holographique, saw the maison harness futuristic materials such as a holographic deposit, while the 2022 collection, Carte Blanche: Ailleurs, saw the merging of diamonds with unexpected materials such as pebbles, burned wood, rattan and meteorite to create jewels with an otherworldly charm. With Carte Blanche, Choisne has redefined the concept of preciousness, dissolving the distinctions between “high” and “low” culture through a vision that blurs artistic boundaries.

As the theme of this year’s Carte Blanche collection is More is More, Choisne and her team have once again created fun and innovative jewellery that transcends the limits of tradition and conventions, ushering in yet another era of exuberance and delight. The collection embraces bold colours, extravagant volumes and innovative materials, all while reimagining the precious artistry that has defined Boucheron for more than a century. Unsurprisingly, it draws inspiration from the pop art movement as well as the soft rebellion of the Memphis artists, conjuring illusions of perspectives liberated from any rule.

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Above Boucheron Carte Blanche More is More Pearl Soap Bubble necklace in white gold and aluminium set with mother-of-pearl, diamonds and sapphire glass (Photo: Boucheron)

A standout is the Tie the Knot brooch and hair jewel. A stunning feat of technical mastery, this oversized bow—measuring 29 cm long!—in white gold, red bio-acetate and magnesium comes set with diamonds, and seemingly suspends in mid‑air when worn. One cannot help but smile when looking at this mesmerising, slightly cartoonish creation that exudes an audacious charm—a reminder, perhaps, to not take life too seriously. Comprising 200 parts that were individually worked and then assembled to ensure both sturdiness and flexibility, the bow has borders that were dyed black to create the effect of a felt pen outline.

The Carte Blanche: More is More collection also reinterprets iconic pieces from Boucheron’s history, breathing new life into timeless designs. The Pearl Soap Bubble necklace, for instance, is a contemporary take on an oversized pearl necklace, with the “pearls” here rendered in mother‑of‑pearl and sapphire glass, and appearing deceptively flat, playing with the viewer’s perceptions and creating a stunning trompe l’oeil effect.

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Above Boucheron Carte Blanche: More is More In the Pocket clothing jewel in white gold and titanium set with onyx, diamonds and lacquer, and An Apple a Day bangle in white gold and titanium set with tsavorites and lacquer (Photo: Boucheron)

At the same time, the collection offers novel concepts, including a high‑jewellery pocket. Crafted with 3D‑printed titanium elements mounted on stretch fabric, In the Pocket can be secured onto the wearer’s outfit by fitting it with a magnet from the back of the garment. This imaginative clothing jewel in white gold is also set with onyx and diamonds, and decorated with lacquer.

More playful pieces come in the form of colourful brooches that, at first glance, look like embroidered patches. Depicting designs such as the Hokusai wave, a cat, a cicada, flowers and more, these whimsical creations set with precious jewels are reminiscent of the eclectic iron‑on patches that were popularised by protesters in the 1960s, and surprise with their intricate details and hidden gems.

Certainly, the Carte Blanche: More is More collection is a revolutionary approach to high jewellery. By fusing avant‑garde techniques with unapologetic exuberance, Choisne has crafted a symphony of preciousness that sings in unison with the vibrant spirit of the times.

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Photo 1 of 5 Boucheron Carte Blanche: More is More Do Not Iron! brooch (Photo: Boucheron)
Photo 2 of 5 Boucheron Carte Blanche: More is More Do Not Iron! brooch (Photo: Boucheron)
Photo 3 of 5 Boucheron Carte Blanche: More is More Do Not Iron! brooch (Photo: Boucheron)
Photo 4 of 5 Boucheron Carte Blanche: More is More Do Not Iron! brooch (Photo: Boucheron)
Photo 5 of 5 Boucheron Carte Blanche: More is More Do Not Iron! brooch (Photo: Boucheron)

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Annabel Tan
Editor, Watches and Jewellery, Tatler Singapore
Tatler Asia

Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.