Cover Long before fashion weeks, front rows and creative directors became part of the industry's vocabulary, women were already defining the way the world dressed. (Photo: Getty Images)
Long before fashion weeks, front rows and creative directors became part of the industry's vocabulary, women were already defining the way the world dressed. (Photo: Getty Images)
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Against the backdrop of an increasingly male-dominated luxury landscape, these designers prove that women remain among fashion’s most influential creative forces
Long before fashion weeks, front rows and creative directors became part of the industry's vocabulary, women were already defining the way the world dressed. Among them was Rose Bertin (1747–1813), the dressmaker to Marie Antoinette who is widely regarded as history's first internationally famous female fashion designer. Dubbed the "Minister of Fashion" by the Château de Versailles, Bertin helped establish fashion as a powerful expression of taste, influence and identity.
Centuries later, designers like the late Vivienne Westwood continued to prove that fashion could be so much more than beautiful clothes. Known as the "Mother of Punk", Westwood turned the runway into a stage for rebellion with her unapologetic designs and provocative spirit, showing that fashion could be political, personal and deeply expressive.
While much of fashion's spotlight has traditionally fallen on male creative directors, women have been shaping the industry all along. From redefining silhouettes to challenging the very purpose of clothing, their influence runs deeper than many realise. These are the female designers whose creativity, vision and enduring legacies continue to shape fashion as we know it today.
Read more: Remembering Giorgio Armani: A look-back at the Italian designer’s illustrious career
Miucca Prada
Above Miuccia Prada (Photo: Getty Images)
Miuccia Prada (Photo: Getty Images)
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When Miuccia Prada took over her family's leather goods business in 1978, she transformed Prada into a multi-billion-dollar luxury fashion empire. In 1993, she launched Miu Miu, Prada's younger, more playful sister brand, which has since become a powerhouse in its own right. Since 2020, she has also shared Prada's creative direction with Raf Simons.
From pioneering the ‘ugly chic’ aesthetic to introducing industrial nylon into high fashion, Prada has consistently challenged conventional ideas of luxury. Infused with intellectual curiosity and feminist perspectives, her collections have reshaped the fashion conversation for more than four decades, cementing her status as one of the industry’s most influential creative voices.
Maria Grazia Chiuri
Above Maria Grazia Chiuri (Photo: Instagram/@mariagraziachiuri)
Maria Grazia Chiuri (Photo: Instagram/@mariagraziachiuri)
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Maria Grazia Chiuri has spent her career reshaping the conversation around women in fashion. After beginning her journey at Fendi, where she worked as an accessories designer and contributed to the development of the iconic Baguette bag, Chiuri went on to become the first woman to lead Dior womenswear in 2016.
During her time at Dior, she transformed the runway into a platform for discussions around femininity, identity and empowerment, with collections that celebrated female artists, writers and artisans—alongside her now-iconic “We Should All Be Feminists” statement. Now, as chief creative officer of Fendi, Chiuri returns to her Roman roots, bringing her signature focus on women, craftsmanship and cultural storytelling into a new chapter for the historic maison.
See also: Icons from cultural archives: Fendi’s Baguette bag tells stories that money alone can't buy
Sarah Burton
Above Sarah Burton (Photo: Givenchy)
Sarah Burton (Photo: Givenchy)
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With nearly three decades in the fashion industry, Sarah Burton has become one of the most respected names in luxury fashion. She joined Alexander McQueen in 1996, working closely with its founder Lee Alexander McQueen before becoming creative director in 2010.
During her 13-year tenure at the house, Burton continued to honour McQueen’s dramatic storytelling while bringing her own vision of romance, craftsmanship and femininity. For Burton, fashion is about capturing every side of modern womanhood — from strength and vulnerability to confidence and sensuality. After leaving Alexander McQueen in 2023, she began a new chapter as creative director of Givenchy, where she continues to shape the future of another historic maison.
Martine Rose
Above Martine Rose (Photo: Getty Images)
Martine Rose (Photo: Getty Images)
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Since launching her eponymous label in 2007, Martine Rose has become one of the most distinctive voices in contemporary fashion. Drawing from London’s underground scenes and her Jamaican-British heritage, Rose challenges the way we see menswear through bold silhouettes, unexpected proportions and a playful approach to dressing.
Her influence has extended beyond her own label through collaborations with brands like Nike and Supreme, bringing her unconventional vision to a wider audience. By blurring the lines between streetwear and high fashion, Rose continues to reshape modern menswear and inspire a new generation to dress beyond expectations.
Don't miss: The winners of the British Fashion Awards 2023
Grace Wales Bonner
Above Grace Wales Bonner (Photo: Getty Images)
Grace Wales Bonner (Photo: Getty Images)
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At just 24, Grace Wales Bonner founded her namesake label and quickly emerged as one of fashion’s most compelling young voices. The South London-born designer blends British tailoring with sportswear, while exploring Black culture, heritage and identity through a distinctly modern lens.
Now serving as creative director of Men’s Ready-to-Wear at Hermès, Wales Bonner continues to break new ground as the first Black woman to lead design at the historic French maison. Through her thoughtful approach to craftsmanship and storytelling, she represents a new era of luxury — one shaped by culture, history and a more expansive vision of fashion.
Aliya Qarina is the Junior Style Writer at Tatler Malaysia with an interest in fashion and beauty. Her writing often focuses on contemporary style, beauty culture and emerging trends.
