Unpacking the highlights of KLFW 2024, from Alia Bastamam to Kit Woo and more

Rizman Ruzaini’s cruise 2024/25 show took us back to the golden age of the 1930s when we were enveloped in the mysterious and opulent world of Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express. At the heart of this collection lies Sophia, a fictional passenger aboard the Orient Express who becomes a potential suspect in the web of deception and intrigue that unfolds.

The air of mystique surrounding Sofia permeates the collection, with every intricate detailing and rich texture of the garments serving as clues revealing layers of the enigmatic character. Portrayed as a noblewoman of mixed Malay-Eurasian heritage, the collection opened with a yellow kebaya layered beneath a peach-coral cape coat as a nod to her roots.

As the collection progressed, we saw Sofia’s style adapt to each new location, blending cultural richness and personal enigma. Her quiet demeanour and meaningful glances were translated into garments that commanded attention without being ostentatious. The use of soft, romantic pleats could be seen as a nod to her graceful movements, whilst the delicate embroidery on houndstooth fabrics mirrored the complexity of her character.

Drawing the curtains on a three-part saga of self-discovery to set the stage for exciting new realms of possibility, Alia Bastamam unveiled the first act of the final chapter of her Odyssey trilogy at KLFW 2024, a prelude to her much-anticipated Dubai Fashion Week debut this coming September.

Building on the themes of self-discovery and personal growth explored in Act I: Past and Act II: Present, Act III: Future embodies the culmination of the Alia Bastamam woman’s journey, showcasing her evolution from the past through the present as she emerges as an empowered and enlightened force of nature, embracing her future with fearless resolve. This empowering concept is deftly translated into a 25-look ensemble that pushes the boundaries of Bastamam’s signature style while remaining true to her core design philosophy.

Bastamam deftly translated this narrative across 25 looks, each offering a glimpse into what lies ahead in her legacy, reflecting her growth and the evolution of her creative vision. One of the most striking aspects of Odyssey: Act III is Bastamam’s experimentation with masculine elements, gracefully harmonised with contemporary feminine silhouettes. Tailored suits, boxing shorts, and bomber jackets were imbued with a feminine allure, striking the perfect balance between strength and sensuality. This synthesis of contrasting styles speaks to a broader narrative of empowerment and self-discovery.

Despite this foray into new territory, Bastamam’s hallmark design aesthetic remained present throughout the collection, featuring her signature fabrics like silk and sheer organza in a sophisticated colour palette of deep jewel tones and muted neutrals. Bikini tops and ombré summer hues recall her roots in resort wear, suggesting that even as her muse strides confidently into the future, she remains grounded in the carefree spirit of island life.

See also: Tatlergram: Our favourite looks from celebrities at KLFW 2024

Fiziwoo’s spring-summer 2025 collection, Night Butterfly, delved into themes of metamorphosis and resilience, serving as a testament to the brand’s commitment to adapt and evolve in the ever-changing landscape of fashion. Inspired by the transformative journey of the moth, the collection reflects its mesmerising ability to transition from the mundane to the extraordinary, drawing on its enigmatic beauty as symbolism of change and evolution.

The collection is defined by a fusion of 1960s safari aesthetics with contemporary utilitarian fashion, featuring an array of denim safari shirts, midi-length skirts, and metallic jacquard evening gowns adorned with oversized bows for women, alongside menswear pieces like relaxed denim baseball shirts, denim shorts, and cotton linen shirts paired with cargo pants. The innovative use of fabrics, including custom-weaved moth motifs and celestial embellishments, enhances the collection’s thematic depth.

The collection’s colour palette further accentuates the theme, reminiscent of the moth’s wings and nocturnal habitat with earthy tones like sand beige, sienna brown, and pale khaki, complemented by striking jewel hues such as emerald green, denim blue, and rustic gold.

Ridduan Ismail, familiar to many as TTFGA, founded Tact in the midst of the pandemic lockdowns in 2021 as a lifestyle brand offering scented candles. A year later, the launch of Tact Loungewear was teased, Ismail’s venture into fashion alongside his sidekick and co-founder of Topboi Citizen, Hadri Hashim, and Hashim’s wife, Sharmaine Arissa. The brand finally made its long-anticipated debut at KLFW 2024 with its inaugural collection, a tribute to the late Jiman Casablancas.

Under the creative direction of Ismail, the brand’s debut collection reimagines loungewear through a high-fashion lens, merging comfort and sophistication with a contemporary flair. In a post-pandemic world where the lines between home and work attire have blurred, Tact Loungewear’s approach of elevating everyday wardrobe staples with fashion-forward ease feels particularly relevant, showcasing a modern take on luxury that resonates with today’s fashion-conscious audience.

Drawing inspiration from Tom Ford’s illustrious tenure at Gucci, the collection’s use of sleek, silky fabrics echoes Ford’s distinctive aesthetic, evoking an air of understated sensuality with a timeless allure. In a harmonious contrast to the sleek and silky ensembles, techwear was also spotted on the runway, infusing the collection with a refined futuristic edge whilst complementing its lustrous appeal with satin-like material that catches the light beautifully.

The tribute to Jiman Casablancas culminated in the show’s finale, closing off with a Casablancas-inspired look that vividly captured his distinct avant-garde and punk-inspired aesthetic. This emotional underpinning gives the collection a depth that goes beyond mere artistic expression, resonating with the brand’s philosophy of creating garments that are both meaningful and enduring.

Amidst the chaos and disarray that ensues in the women’s bathroom at nightclubs, there lies a fleeting sanctuary where the very essence of girlhood is on full display. Strangers become confidantes, sharing lipstick and life advice in equal measure. The mirror becomes a gathering point where compliments flow freely, and insecurities are soothed. Girlhood manifests in spontaneous dance parties by the sinks, in hushed conversations about crushes and heartbreaks, and in the collective eye-rolls at long queues.

Ghostboy’s debut collection for KLFW 2024, aptly titled Sink, cleverly balances edgy, nightlife-inspired elements with more ethereal, morning-after vibes, capturing the multifaceted nature of femininity that unfolds within these disorderly yet intimate spaces. Rugged, worn textures are juxtaposed with flowy garments, mirroring the dualities found in its inspiration by tapping into the nightlife experience, from the raw and gritty nature of wild nights out to the moments of pause and reflection in the bathroom.

For KLFW 2024, creative director Fairuz Ramdan joined forces with Kapten Batik once again to present their spring-summer 2025 collection, titled Ori-Tsuru, inspired by the story of Sadako Sasaki , a young victim of the Hiroshima atomic bombing who became a symbol of peace through her origami cranes.

The collection showcases modern cuts and innovative constructions, with origami crane motifs integrated into the prints, reflecting Sadako’s legacy and the broader themes of overcoming adversity. Standout pieces include versatile three-in-one jackets, multi-pleated pants, and utilitarian-inspired batik shirts. These garments, crafted with attention to detail, offer a modern take on heritage designs.

Shals made a grand debut at KLFW 2024, marking a significant milestone in its 13-year journey with the presentation of the Coming of Age collection. The collection epitomises the essence of the brand’s evolution, blending past influences with present innovation to craft a visual narrative of growth and transformation. Inspired by the metaphor of a cocoon, each piece was imbued with a sense of intimacy and introspection, meticulously designed to embody a chapter in Shals’ story, interlacing intricate detailing and innovative textiles that spoke to both the brand’s past and its future aspirations.

As the official backstage beauty partner of KLFW 2024, L’Oréal Paris brought its campaign, “Walk Your Worth,” onto the runway with the Women Of Worth cohort, a group of inspiring Malaysian and Singaporean women recognised for their achievements in various fields, including Purnima Wijendra, Erica Eng, Sivasangari Subramaniam, Jenn Low, Shivaani Mariapun, Steffi Sidhu, and Eyka Farhana. Each woman who graced the runway represented a facet of self-worth and resilience, inspiring the audience to embrace and celebrate their own value.

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The Melium Group’s #GenerationMelium showcase at KLFW 2024 underscored the evolution and broad spectrum of the luxury retailer’s offerings. From Alo Yoga to Aigner, Piquadro to MCM and more, the show presented a curated selection of ensembles from some of the world’s most coveted labels, highlighting The Melium Group's commitment to offering a comprehensive range of fashion that caters to diverse tastes and lifestyles.

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