Cover Shikin Gomez walks the Alia Bastamam show (Photo: All is Amazing)

This year, the city's biggest fashion event makes a return to the physical runway to showcase stunning collections by Malaysian designers

Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week was full of surprises this year, from unexpected music performances and dynamic walks from the most exclusive models to the emergence of even the most elusive royals and celebrities, who came out in support of their favourite designers. But that didn't take away from the focus of the week: fashion. 

Tatler breaks down the best collections on display at KLFW 2021. 

See also: Highlights from KLFW 2020

Behati

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Creative director of Behati, Kel Wen makes a bold move away from festive wear to reinvent casual couture in his Kutior collection—a play on the Malay pronunciation of 'couture'. Puffer jackets, parkas and suits are reimagined in traditional Chinese fabrics and traditional detailing in an interpretation of Malaysia's multiculturalism. Standout pieces include track pants with Chinese knots as side poppers and ripped Chinese brocade trousers. "The ripped jeans was a last minute addition," reveals Kel Wen. He shares that it was meant to signify how he was ripping up the rule books on how heritage should be interpreted in fashion. 

"This collection puts more of an emphasis on preserving traditional techniques," emphasises Kel Wen. "I understand that the way that many people preserve their culture is by keeping everything the same but that's not how I see it. What's important to me is that in 50 or 100 years, people will remember how to create the Chinese knots or sew the kekek pesak panel—so I didn't hesitate to do what I did!" 

As a testament to Behati's forward-thinking approach to fashion, the Kutior pieces were modelled down the runway by Malaysian voguer Teddy and drag queen Kumela Kumslut, making KL Fashion Week history and earning the top spot as our favourite fashion show of all. 

See also: How Yuleza's Designer You Sheng Turned His Family Batik Business into a Couture Atelier

Alia Bastamam

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Photo 1 of 10 Shikin Gomez (Photo courtesy of Alia Bastamam)
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Photo 10 of 10 Alia Bastamam and Joe Flizzow (Photo courtesy of Alia Bastamam)

Commemorating the 10-year anniversary of her brand, Alia Bastamam's Cascade collection is a triumphant celebration of her rich archives, from the instantly-recognisable ombré pink abaya to the classic relaxed silhouette and soft, flowing fabrics. "I just want to show how far my team and I grown, how we followed the flow and how the last decade has truly shaped the aesthetic of this resort collection," said the veteran Malaysian designer

Cascade also reflects the more optimistic mood of the times, introducing a variety of garments cut from sparkling crystal mesh fabric, from subtle and elegant panelling on gowns to entirely see-through tops and travel-inspired swimsuit cover-ups. "This collection is about a woman who is unapologetic in her ways, free in the way she carries herself and super vibrant," she added.

One of the most subscribed shows at the socially distanced fashion event, friends of the label came out in full support—including rapper Joe Flizzow, who delighted the crowd with a surprise performance of verses dedicated to Alia Bastamam. 

Throwback: Exclusive: Alia Bastamam Presents The Garden of Babylon

Hatta Dolmat

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Wanting to drive the narrative of sustainable, circular fashion further instead of letting it fade as a one-off trend, the designer’s eponymous label and his nonprofit organisation, the Kuala Lumpur Young Designers Association (KLYDA), have created OCEAN’US, an eco-conscious campaign in conjunction with KLFW 2021. By collaborating with eco-conscious groups such as Kloth Cares and Ocean Hero Conservation, Hatta's latest collection for this year features colourful, hand-drawn batik designs on fabrics made from raw plastics (100% PET) found on local shorelines.

See also: Hatta Dolmat Enters Malaysia Book of Records for His Sustainable Fashion Collection

Fizi Woo

Hafizi Radzi Woo and Izree Kai Haffiz, the two designers behind Fizi Woo were inspired by the summer landscape, including delicate wildflowers, for their spring/summer 2022 collection. Creating pieces from light knits and sheer fabrics, the looks for both men and women took on a fairytale vibe—with full skirts paired with corsets, relaxed jumpers and "Let Your Dreams Bloom" message embroidered alongside floral detailing on the back of their garments. 

See also: Disney+ Hotstar Collaborates with Fikri Afif To Create Unique 'Cruella'-Inspired Clothes

Kit Woo

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"I first had the idea for this collection during the first major lockdown in March 2020, when there was a lot of uncertainty," said Kit Woo in a pre-show interview. "This is the longest that I've ever taken to develop a collection so it's very wide-ranging in terms of aesthetics." 

Indeed, his latest collection, Where Do We Go From Here, saw a foray into deconstruction with the adoption of more distressed fabrics as well as utilitarian elements in a separating double parka jacket that can be detachable and worn over one another—while staying true to his mission to create clothes that transcends gender and age. 

See also: 7 Shoe Staples To Maintain a Minimalist Wardrobe

Farah Khan

Tatler Asia
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Above Photo: All Is Amazing

Farah Khan's collection was an exercise in movement. From layers of fringes, fringes of feathers and voluminous embellished skirts which caught the light with every step the models took, it was a triumphant return to the runway by the veteran designer and founder of The Melium Group. At the end of the show, she also gave a shout-out to Andrew Tan, founder of Kuala Lumpur Fashion Show, for pulling off the fashion event: "Andrew is the man that makes fashion happen in Malaysia. He is a true inspiration."

See also: A Day in the Life of Dato' Seri Dr Farah Khan, Founder of The Melium Group

Syomirizwa Gupta

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Photo 1 of 9 Photo courtesy of Syomirizwa Gupta
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To quote the designer himself, the 2022 Holiday Collection is definitely “a party at Syomir’s ashram”. Introducing his inner zen with a colourful twist, Syomir re-visits his love for colour-blocking and piques in us a longing for a technicolour holiday (coupled with a drink). In contrast with the fluorescent fuschia, vibrant vermillion, brilliant blues and canary yellows, each look has a relaxed, purposeful chic in its design—which is a mix of comfort and style that we can get behind.

See also: Syomirizwa Gupta on Why Fashion Needs A Reality Check

Rizman Ruzaini

"We never hide that we're trying to be the best. After every thing that we do, we always ask ourselves 'what can we improve?'" prefaces Rizman Nordin and Ruzaini Wan Jamil in a teaser clip on their social media before Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week. And indeed, the designer duo upped the ante by enlisting the help of Malaysia's most recognisable supermodels, including Amber Chia and Tinie, to debut their RR Red collection.

Taking a step away from soft pastels and neutral tone, they present elegant silhouettes, from pleated skirts to balloon sleeves, in bold red with modern necklines and sparkling embellishment—a joyous celebration of the modern Malaysian woman. 

See also: UnitedWood's Founders Voon Lai and Jonathan Cheng on How To Make A Strong Fashion Statement

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