Cover The runway set-up at the Gucci fall-winter 2025 presentation (Photo: Gucci)
The runway set-up at the Gucci fall-winter 2025 presentation (Photo: Gucci)
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The Gucci Fall-Winter 2025 show references the retro while the House looks forward to new beginnings
Green is a colour that symbolises new beginnings and for Gucci, it felt like a rallying call for the show to go on. For their fall-winter 2025 presentation in Milan, we find the House hoisting themselves up after creative director Sabato de Sarno’s sudden departure. His signature Ancora red was absent as well, replaced by a strong, almost phthalo-esque green.
The collection was led by Gucci’s in-house design team, who took their final bows at the presentation’s conclusion. A lush setting decked out in green velvets and glass accents seemed to be referencing the Seventies, a key period in Gucci’s international growth. And, for the first time in the brand’s history, both womenswear and menswear were presented together. Models walked on an interlocking G-shaped stage, with a live orchestra performing an original score by Oscar-winning conductor Justin Hurwitz.
More from Tatler: London Calling: The Gucci Cruise 2025 collection is Sabato de Sarno’s love letter to the Big Smoke
Above A look from the Gucci fall-winter 2025 presentation (Photo: Gucci)
Above A look from the Gucci fall-winter 2025 presentation (Photo: Gucci)
A look from the Gucci fall-winter 2025 presentation (Photo: Gucci)
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Accessories were the highlight, especially lariat necklaces featuring the Horsebit motif—a feature so integrated into the ensembles that it was at the same time indistinct—and a softer, pillow-like version of the Horsebit 1955 bag. The collection was defined by a varied approach, with colours that initially seemed randomly generated—a tutti frutti concoction of bubblegum pinks, lush violets, and buttery yellows, among others. The result thrived in its positive inconsistency, a reminder that variability can be welcomed if done right. Duality is the key word here—both sharp and soft, both masculine and feminine, and both playful and serious.
See also: What Goes Around: Behind the story and craftsmanship of the Gucci Blondie
Above A look from the Gucci fall-winter 2025 presentation (Photo: Gucci)
Above A look from the Gucci fall-winter 2025 presentation (Photo: Gucci)
A look from the Gucci fall-winter 2025 presentation (Photo: Gucci)
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One could take note of elements borrowed from Gucci’s past eras: Tom Ford’s hedonistic, leather-and-lace sensibilities, Alessandro Michele’s furs and penchant for the ultra-maximalism, and Sabato de Sarno’s eye for sleekness, structure, and all things capital-L luxe. However, calling this a reductive fusion of each creative director’s influences would overlook the efforts established by the design team.
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About
Julianna has been interested in leading a literary life since she first read Frances Hodgson Burnett's A Little Princess at eight. Before working with Tatler, she was an archive intern at The Center for Fiction in Brooklyn, New York. She is a textbook Pisces who devotes most of her spare time to her crochet projects, watching classic films, and going through her never-ending pile of unread books. She studied creative writing, global literature and art history at Sarah Lawrence College, graduating with a Bachelor of Arts degree in 2022. Toni Morrison, Nora Ephron, Clarice Lispector and Jia Tolentino are among her all-time favourite writers.
Work
Julianna writes about fashion, beauty, sustainability, and the arts. She is always keen on conducting interviews with talented women who are changing the game in their respective fields.
For event invites and story leads, hit her up at julianna.cabili@tatlerasia.com
