London Calling: The Gucci Cruise 2025 collection is Sabato de Sarno’s love letter to the Big Smoke

The decision to host the Gucci Cruise 2025 runway show in London was not arbitrary. In fact, it holds a profound significance. The esteemed fashion house can trace its origins back to the city’s iconic Savoy Hotel, where its founder, Guccio Gucci, once worked as a luggage porter. Inspired by the opulent travel gear of the hotel's affluent guests, Gucci was motivated to establish his first boutique upon returning to Italy. This historical connection to London is a testament to the brand's enduring legacy and its deep-rooted ties to the city. 

The creation of the Horsebit loafer, a perennial motif of the House, was inspired by the guests' fascination for equestrian equipment. This ornament, modelled after a horse’s bridle, made multiple appearances on various accessories throughout the show.

De Sarno explains in a press release, “The House’s return is driven by a desire to be immersed in its distinctive essence, its creative driving force with its limitless capability to put together contrasts, make them converse, and find ways to coexist.” This recurring motif not only pays homage to the brand's heritage but also adds a unique touch to the collection.

Read more: A History of Refinement: The Gucci Horsebit 1953 Loafer

De Sarno echoes the British sentiment of function and pragmatism. Pieces are faithful to his distinctive, sleek touch. As expected, his signature Ancora red was present on clothing and accessories, notably a revamped version of the Gucci Blondie bag that originated in the Seventies. One can predict that it will soon be regarded as the next it-accessory.

Patent leather coats styled over sheer tights recall the British mod subculture that emerged in the mid-century. The collection also made room for sophisticated browns and yellows with the occasional pop of teal and mint. The inclusion of both floral embroideries and leatherworking is an interesting contrast, celebrating De Sarno’s knack for subversion. 

He notes, “After having expressed my ideas of desirability and sensuality, this is another piece of me, more romantic, more contradictory. I like taking in something that we think we know and breaking away from its rules… bringing it towards its opposite and finding harmony.”

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