It was one of the most awaited fashion collections last year, with Sabato de Sarno taking over the reins as creative director of Gucci from Alessandro Michele
Upon Gucci Philippines’ invitation, we watched the live presentation of the brand’s latest collection at the Blackbird restaurant last September. What went down the runway was in stark contrast to the creations of Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s former creative director. A reset button was pressed in less than 15 minutes, wiping out the seven years of the previous designer’s stamp. What we were now seeing was a new Gucci. It recalled the early days of Tom Ford, less skin but with the same aura of sophistication, sexiness and confidence.
Red and green stripes were prominent. There were loafers, kitten heels, platform shoes, sequined tops, bamboo on bags, and the much-loved Jackie bag, named after Jackie Kennedy. Noticeable was the use of less logo (it was still there though if you look closely) and a focus on the design, craftsmanship and material. The notes that the brand’s new creative director, Sabato de Sarno, gave to everyone read more like a love letter than a press release.
About his collection, De Sarno said: “It’s a story of the joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamour, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words [words in artworks, words in pictures, words in spaces, just words]. A story of richness and lust/desire, of red but also blue and green, of flash, of spontaneity, of light, of a party at the first light of day. It’s an unhidden story, one that’s proud; it is manifest and not taboo. However it might look like it should be, it is completely free and filled with euphoria. It is a story of fabulous, diverse people; it’s Getty images of cool people of all ages, and it’s inclusive as in everyone is welcomed. It’s a story of movies, of my beloved Italy, of intellectuals and travels worldwide but still feeling at home wherever you are. A story of objects—shiny, tactile and cold to the touch but warm to the heart and soul— desirable to collect, not for a museum but to enrich everyday life. It’s a story of music and nights out, of sweat, dancing and singing. It’s a story of family, of kissing, lots and lots of kisses. It’s a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy.”
