Photo: Getty Images
Cover Di Petsa's fall/winter 2023 collection is inspired by mythical Greek goddess, Persephone (Photo: Getty Images)

From embracing the pregnant form to making feminist statements, see how these designers are defying norms with their unconventional creations

Authenticity, artistry and accessibility—this winning combination is key to making an impact in womenswear. Oftentimes, women designers are able to more readily tap into their own personal experiences to successfully execute all three factors in their fashion collections, from conception and storytelling to construction and sales. 

On International Women’s Day, Tatler highlights five female designers who have been making waves by capturing the full female experience and celebrating women and womanhood in their work. 

Read more: London Fashion Week embraces diversity in design and casting

1. Dimitra Petsa

The Greek designer’s eponymous label Di Petsa has always been fascinated with the correlation between water and women as vital life forces. From the very beginning, her "wet" dresses were created for women of every size, including pregnant women. Her most recent fall/winter 2023 collection, which debuted at London Fashion Week, saw this unique, ethereal concept elevated as Petsa experiments with new fabrics

See also: Ukrainian designer Lilia Litkovska channels resistance through her label at Paris Fashion Week

2. Natasha Sumant

Slow fashion brand Gundi Studios derives its name from a Hindi colloquialism which translates directly to "female thug—often used to describe women who live by their own rules. It was founded by Natasha Sumant to combat the stereotype of South Asian women as meek or weak. “I decided to create my own space for girls like me,” says the fashion and textile designer.

Designed for the modern woman, her creations are innovative and often draw inspiration from her own heritage. She works with non-profit social enterprise Saheli Women and Kullvi Whims to empower the women in rural areas around India who bring her garments to life.  

Don't miss: The best Fall 2023 looks from Milan Fashion Week

3. Eun Pyo Hong

27-year-old emerging South Korean designer who recently graduated from Institut Français de la Mode interrogates femininity, feminism and women's relationship with fashion through her creations, including her latest graduate collection, Sologamy: I Said Yes to Myself, which showcased a knitted bridal gown inspired by a multi-layered wedding cake. 

Read more: South Korean designer Sohee Park makes her Paris Couture Week debut

4. Michaela Stark

This London-based artist and couturier creates lingerie pieces which accentuate parts of the body that are conventionally hidden. From breasts spilling out of corsets to laces and bows tied to put emphasis on rolls, Stark’s hyper-exaggerated exploration of curves proposes new beauty ideals and has recently sparked important conversations about body positivit when her pieces were spotted on A-list celebrities Sam Smith and Shygirl.

See also: From Kim Kardashian to the Y2K trend, skinny and 'heroin chic' is back—and as problematic as ever

5. Dilara Findikoglu

Findikoglu’s fashion collections are unafraid to tackle difficult topics, from exploitation of women to protests for women’s rights and the suffering of child brides. Imbued with meaning, her designs often subvert historically oppressive fashion elements. Her recent fall/winter 2023 showcase saw fully sheer dresses juxtaposed against corsets, a hyper-mini bridal dress crafted from lace, and a showstopping finale where 200 Victorian knives were bent to create a metal armour for the female body.

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