The creative director's first collection for Burberry manages to excite with his take on the British luxury brand's heritage
During his five years at Burberry, Riccardo Tisci was unable to recreate the success he enjoyed during his time at Givenchy, where he managed to resurrect the brand creatively and commercially, keeping the momentum going for more than a decade with now-famous fashion moments such as the collective obsession with the Antigona Bag and Givenchy Bambi print in collaboration with Disney.
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At Burberry, Tisci's offerings, including the first new logo in 20 years, felt flat and incoherent with the brand's heritage. It generated lukewarm reception that could not be sustained even with the star power of Naomi Campbell, Giselle Bündchen, and Kendall Jenner fronting campaigns. While his vision to bring the same impact to Burberry as his predecessor Christopher Bailey did progress Burberry to modern standards in the industry, particularly in the realm of sustainability, the execution was disappointingly lacking.
In contrast, Daniel Lee's direction brings a new hope for the British brand for the first time in five years. In September 2022, after his surprise departure from Bottega Veneta, the Bradford-born designer was appointed as Burberry's creative director. The lead up to his debut for the brand saw his revival of the Prorsum logo as well as his first campaign starring up-and-coming names such as Shygirl, Raheem Sterling, John Glacier, and Lennon Gallagher, alongside legendary powerhouse, Vanessa Redgrave.
One of the last shows during London Fashion Week, Lee's latest fall/winter 2023 collection is a much-needed refresh, inspiring great expectations for Burberry's future under his stewardship.
