Rising from the ashes: Siargao bounces back from typhoon Odette

Since tourism is the island’s primary livelihood source, restoring infrastructure to normal was crucial. According to Marc-David Pintucan, the president of the non-government organisation Lokal Lab, power is more stable now with fewer outages, “a major government investment that works”, he says. An efficient transportation system between General Luna, home to most of the tourist spots in Siargao, and Dapa, where the port is located, is also in the works. While restoring the famous Cloud 9 boardwalk remains a work in progress, the famous islands of  Daku, Guyam, Naked, La Januza and Mam-on and the iconic Mapupungko rock pools have substantially healed, drawing more tourists during the day. “The big waves of Siargao, the biggest come-on for surfers all over the world, never left the island,” says Queenmelo Esguerra, a journalist and filmmaker living in Siargao since the pandemic. With this, the touristy areas of Siargao bounced back faster than its less touristy northern parts. “Tourism is back! Most establishments affected by the typhoon have reopened, and new ones are under construction,” Esguerra adds.  

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In addition, the French photographer Camille Robiou du Pont shares that “the Del Carmen Mangrove Reserve was declared a Wetland of International Importance in February this year” in a bid by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources to get global recognition under a 52-year-old treaty on the conservation and use of these areas. The Del Carmen Mangrove Reserve proved to be life-saving during super typhoon Odette. 

But more than government initiatives and nature’s healing process, what’s more evident was the spirit of bayanihan that is still very much alive in Siargao today. For instance, many businesses on the island were motivated to get back on their feet right away because they felt the need to step up not only for themselves but, more importantly, for their staff who have been with them through the years. Bariou, the owner of Maison Bukana, explains, “We felt that it was our responsibility to bring their jobs back and do everything we could to help them rebuild their own houses.” The same driving force moved several resort owners—of Siago, a Bohemian beachfront accommodation in General Luna; Bombora, a hidden resort tucked in the jungles of Santa Fe, which Odette also knocked down; and Las Barricas, a famous Spanish restaurant—to raise funds to help local families reconstruct their damaged homes. On the other hand, some fisherfolks benefitted from CEV’s boat repair programme. As CEV is a dining spot specialising in kilawin (the Filipino counterpart of ceviche) that primarily uses fish and seafood as main ingredients, the owners thought they needed to help the fishing community that provides the island with a more sustainable food source.

Read also: After the Storm: Survivors of Super Typhoon Odette Tell Their Gripping Stories from Ground Zero

Esguerra spearheads another food security project in Siargao: a two-hectare community farm in Barangay San Mateo established in partnership with Global Peace Foundation and Down to Earth Farms. “The first six months focused on soil strengthening and basic knowledge of regenerative agriculture so that they can sustainably grow farm produce for their consumption. The next six months allowed our farmers to become farmer entrepreneurs,” shares Esguerra, explaining further that this initiative is meant not only to address the global food shortage problem that is expected in the coming years but will also provide its volunteer farmers with a way to augment their income as they continue to enjoy healthy meals. “Our farmer volunteers get 100 per cent of the sales of the farm produce they harvest. We find direct buyers for them, those who can pay them directly upon delivery of their harvests,” says Esguerra.

So what does Siargao need now? Vince Lampert of the revamped Nay Palad Hideaway that is set to reopen in June says, “Siargao needs to have a proper hospital and a good waste management system to keep the island clean and in order,” he says, emphasising how vital these are to keep the place on the global tourism map. “For now, each municipality takes care of its waste. There’s a need for synergy in all the waste management initiatives of every municipality on the island,” Esguerra agrees, adding that a comprehensive disaster preparedness plan should be in place to avoid severe damages due to calamities again in the future.

For his part, Bariou asserts that Siargao now needs tourists to revisit the island. “The easiest way to help is to come to Siargao. We need the local economy to bounce back. So many people have lost their livelihood and need their steady income back,” he reiterates, calling for the promotion of responsible tourism. Visitors should patronise sustainable businesses or those who genuinely care about using tourism as a tool to preserve the island. “Eat from local farms, buy local fruits and veggies, prioritise local establishments that directly impact the families here.” 

Alternatively, donations to trusted local NGOs like Lokal Lab, Rare Ph and SEA Movement will go a long way. “Lokal Lab is building a vocational school to train the locals in different fields,” says Pintucan, speaking about their capacity-building project for adults and young adults.

While others may see Siargao now as a resilient island that surpassed the challenges it faced in recent years, the reality is that it will take decades before its environment and forests recover fully. “Tourists and those who did not witness the aftermath may not realise it because Siargao is green again and looks wonderful, but many areas have lost more than 50 per cent of their trees,” Bariou relates, a reminder that nature in Siargao is still highly fragile. “It is a call for all of us islanders to humbly learn from this natural disaster on how we should respect nature and protect the environment; and a call to tourists to come with a respectful and eco-friendly mindset, enjoining us to protect what we love,” he concludes.

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