Hotel review: Chateau Saint-Martin & Spa offers blissful seclusion and medieval charm in the South of France

Arriving at Chateau Saint-Martin & Spa, we’re greeted by the Provençal signature of towering, slender cypress trees and immaculately sculpted hedges framing the entrance. Despite the property’s historic grandeur, there’s an immediate sense of stepping into someone’s warm and inviting vacation, albeit palatial, home. The ambience is decidedly intimate. The lobby is cosy, with arched doorways leading to a living and waiting area that resembles a medieval living room, complete with soothing pink walls, classic Louis XV- and XVI-style furnishings, and its pièce de résistance: a giant floral arrangement that changes daily and sits majestically on an ornately carved antique gilded table.

As you wait to check in, step outside onto the terrace to take in the views of Vence.

Home to 41 rooms, suites, and private villas, the hotel underwent a renovation in 2018 by renowned architect and interior decorator Bergit Grafin Douglas from MM Design in Frankfurt, Germany.

We check into the Superior Junior Suite, an elegant sanctuary with a living and dining area. The room is satisfyingly spacious, with ample light flooding in during the day. Our large private terrace, complete with daybeds and an outdoor eating area, offers expansive views of the restaurant in the adjacent tower and the distant coast.

The marble bathroom is generously proportioned, with a separate tub and shower, and is stocked with Bamford botanical toiletries. Much like its sister hotel, Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, the slippers, towels, and bathrobes boast the same thick and luxurious quality.

As for its other suites, the Deluxe Junior Suite offers an open-plan concept, while the Prestige Junior Suite, the most spacious of them all, features a generously sized balcony with verdant views of Vence’s cypress-dotted countryside.

For couples seeking privacy and romance, the Duplex Suite boasts a hidden bedroom on the top floor of the tower and a private balcony adjoining the living room, offering panoramic views of the French Riviera.

For a truly unforgettable vacation, book a Provencal-style villa. Dotting the landscape just up the hill from the Château, the six villas span one to three bedrooms, featuring elegantly appointed interiors, private outdoor access, and private pools.

Wandering the grounds is a delightful experience, which begins with the tower where our room is located. Each year, the hotel hosts a special art exhibition. Its 2024 edition spotlights English artist and designer Georgia Tucker, who is known for creating immersive experiences that blend different types of mediums, including painting, sculpture, and large-scale installations.

For her Sentia exhibition, Tucker drew inspiration from the hotel’s stunning gardens and foliage, and the magnificent Baou des Blancs mountain which towers imperiously in the distance. Her work, a series of 14 paintings, four vases, and two stained-glass pieces in yellow, blue and green Riviera tones, can be viewed near the hotel’s Saint-Martin chapel and the marble corridor that makes up the hotel’s gallery.

The hotel’s Mediterranean gardens are also a treat to explore. Take a leisurely stroll around the tree-lined premises to soak in views of the mountain, relax on the swing surrounded by olive trees and lavender fields, or spend a morning by the infinity pool.

Do yourself a favour and book one of the four private garden cabanas. These shaded retreats, crafted from natural wood and discreetly hidden among ancient olive trees, offer seclusion and shade between dips in the pool. They provide a lovely setting for a private lunch or a quiet place for small children while parents read a novel or play a game. Near the pool is a heated jacuzzi perfect for two, overlooking the countryside with the azure blue waters of the French Riviera gleaming just miles below.

For those who prefer more active pursuits, the hotel also features two tennis courts, where you can book a session with the in-house tennis pro, and an impressively equipped gym. If you prefer to work out with a professional, the hotel offers personal training sessions and yoga classes.

Alternatively, if being horizontal is more your preference, visit the award-winning La Prairie Spa for knot-melting massages and skin rejuvenation. Infused with fresh Provençal air, the intimate spa offers four treatment rooms, including a duo cabin and a beauty room for glamour and grooming. Guests can also opt to enjoy their treatments in the gardens, within a private and serene cabana.

As we quickly learn at Oetker Collection properties on the French Riviera, dinners must always commence with pre-drinks. Start your evening at Le Rossini, known for its signature cocktail made with sweet sparkling wine and puréed berries. The bar exudes regal splendour, adorned with rare tapestries commissioned from the historic Manufacture des Gobelins in Paris over 200 years ago. Alternatively, you can enjoy a glass of champagne on terrace while taking in the sweeping views of the Côte d’Azur.

Following drinks at Le Rossini, head to Le Saint Martin for dinner. This one-Michelin-starred restaurant offers delicate yet classic French cuisine featuring locally sourced and seasonal produce, such as asparagus. Served Mimosa-style, our appetiser features a sunny-side-up egg with a light, tangy Dijon vinaigrette.

Opting for a lighter main, I chose the roasted cauliflower, delighting in its charred flavour paired with nutty tahini and a unique zaatar ice cream. My husband’s order of a beef dish is a tender cut sourced from Aveyron, accompanied by artichoke, coffee, and buckwheat. While the restaurant is large enough to accommodate a surprisingly large dinner crowd, it is best to ask for a corner seat by the window or on the terrace if you prefer a little more privacy. 

Le Saint Martin is also where we enjoy our daily breakfasts. These are veritable feasts of cold-pressed juices, fresh honeycomb, an array of pastries, and creamy scrambled eggs.

While the hotel epitomises Riviera romance, it also serves as a great base for further exploration. We rented a car—courtesy of the hotel’s concierge—and drove to the Principality of Monaco and the medieval village of Eze. There’s plenty to explore within Vence and its neighbouring areas as well. Visit the markets in Provence to savour fresh fruits, vegetables, and spices, or stop by the Fondation Emile Hugues if you are a fan of modern art.

Wine lovers can visit the island of St Honorat to sample wines made by Cistercian monks, who have refined their production since the Middle Ages, presenting seven cuvées from their unique island terroir. Another option is the Château de Berne, a distinguished vineyard accessible via a helicopter ride from the hotel’s helipads.

Fragrance enthusiasts should not miss Grasse, the perfume capital of the world. The town is also home to a cathedral with an impressive collection of religious art, including works by Rubens. For a classic Riviera experience, head to Nice. Stroll through the Saleya flower market, the Promenade des Anglais, or the labyrinthine streets of Vieux Nice, lined with red, yellow, and ochre Baroque facades, and visit the Matisse and Chagall museums. A drive away is the town of Antibes, known for its charming cobbled streets, Provençal market and Picasso Museum.

Like many hotels on the Riviera, Château Saint-Martin & Spa comes alive in the summer. Les Estivales, its annual summer soirée, returns for the third season in a row with live music and performances. Taking place in its gardens, the festival offers a Provençal-inspired buffet featuring rotisserie meats, cheeses, craft beers, fresh fruits and vegetables, and the sublime creations of pastry chef Tanya Colella. This festive event will take place on select dates throughout the season, including July 4th, July 18th, August 1st, August 15th, and August 29th.

Château Saint-Martin & Spa is the kind of hotel where you’ll lose your heart and sense of time. The luxury yet rustic retreat will effortlessly enchant you with its French charm. Whether you’re after serene seclusion, culinary delights, or a base for exploring the Riviera, it delivers magic in every way. How best to enjoy it? Why, simply surrender to its unhurried pace, stretch out in your poolside cabana, and request another glass of rosé, s’il vous plaît.

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