Hotel review: Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc—The Grand Dame of Gatsby-era glamour on the French Riviera

Over the next two decades, the hotel rose in prominence, attracting numerous prominent guests, including Irish playwright and critic George Bernard Shaw, King Edward VII of England, and writers and artists like Ernest Hemingway, and F. Scott Fitzgerald, who immortalised the property in Tender Is the Night as Hôtel des Étrangers, “a summer resort for notable and fashionable people.” 

In 1964, while sailing in the Mediterranean, Maja and Rudolf August Oetker spotted a majestic mansion in the distance. Enchanted by its allure, they decided to purchase the Grand Hotel du Cap in 1969. Over the years, they renovated the property, including its iconic pool and pavilion, restoring its grandeur and elegance.

Today, the hotel is part of the Oetker Collection’s lineup of storied luxury five-star hotels, which includes Le Bristol in Paris and Brenners Park Hotel & Spa in Germany. In 2016, it was awarded the ‘Palace’ Distinction.

Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc is located in Antibes, nestled between Cannes and Nice. A transfer can be arranged from the train station in Nice or the airport—an option we opted for.

Upon arrival, we’re greeted by the sight of the imposing, cream-toned main chateau, adorned with dove-grey shutters. Flanking the entrance are unmistakably contemporary artworks, creating a striking juxtaposition to the hotel’s historic architecture.

As we’re gently ushered into the marble lobby, we’re mesmerised by the light that falls upon the elegant chequered floors, illuminating the wooden revolving door that leads out to the property’s crown: the 200-metre-long Grande Allée. This palm tree-lined pathway has played host to many legendary occasions, including high-fashion runway shows and celebrity weddings, including the trending nuptials of “It Girl” Sofia Richie last year and, most recently, Umar Kamani (the billionaire chief executive officer of fast fashion website Pretty Little Thing), who booked the entire hotel for his wedding weekend which took place a day after we checked out.

Knowing its celebrity clientele, we do what anyone would: people-watch while waiting to check in. The crowd is a fascinating mix, from the young and glamorous in head-to-toe designer outfits to the elegantly understated “old money” elite.

At present, Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc houses 111 guestrooms, situated in three different locations across its main mansion, pavilion and the more private Les Deux Fontaines residence.

We arrive at the most opportune time: two weeks after the hotel had reopened for 2024—the hotel typically closes from the end of October to April—and just before its peak summer period. 

With every seasonal closure, the hotel renovates its accommodations. In 2023, it refreshed 46 of its suites. This year, it completed the full renovation of another 34 rooms, which were reimagined by Madame Bergit Gräfin Douglas of MM-Design in Frankfurt. These rooms feature interiors with floral motifs and toile de Jouy fabrics by Pierre Frey and Manuel Canovas, along with original artworks.

Our room for two nights is the Deluxe One Bedroom Suite, located in the main mansion. This stylish 80-square-metre space is an apartment in its own right. It opens up to a living room area, painted in the perfect shade of cream, with an eclectic mix of Louis XV and elegant furnishings—the centrepiece being a beautiful marble fireplace and turquoise shelves lined with books about fashion, photography, and culture.

The suite also offers what is unarguably the hotel’s prime views of the gardens and the grand passageway. An outdoor terrace connects the living room to the bedroom. It also houses two exquisite marble bathrooms featuring bathtubs and luxury toiletries. Notable amenities include the Dior Beauty Eden-Roc perfume, a collaboration launched for the property’s 150th anniversary in 2021, and a Dyson Supersonic hairdryer.

As with many luxury properties, a turn-down service is par de course. But befitting Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc’s reputation for stellar service, the staff go out of their way to prepare you for bed, including placing thoughtful additions to your everyday items, such as a glass cleaner next to your eyewear.

If you check in for two nights, as we have, you’ll face the delightful dilemma of whether to stay on the hotel premises or explore the nearby attractions in Antibes or Nice.

If you choose to stay in, there’s plenty to do within the hotel. Lounge by its saltwater swimming pool—immortalised in photos by American photographer Slim Aaron in the seventies—or take flight into the Mediterranean seas from the hotel’s vintage diving board. 

Or go on an art trail on the premises. Continuing its tradition of hosting legendary artists and their works, the hotel has invited Kamel Mennour, owner of the Parisian gallery Mennour, to present a collection of monumental sculptures by five leading artists, titled Un Eté à l'Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc.

Among the artworks are The Tounelle, parked at the hotel’s entrance, a multi-coloured installation by Daniel Buren, who’s renowned for his 260 black and white striped octagonal columns at the Palais Royal in Paris, and the Big Be-Hide by Alicja Kwade. Situated prominently on the garden along the Grande Allee, the latter is made up of a granite stone with a cast aluminium replica, placed on either side of a two-faced mirror.

In addition to its art installations, the hotel boasts five tennis clay courts. Surrounded by Aleppo pines, olive trees, and palms, these have been graced by countless celebrities, including Leonardo DiCaprio and tennis royalty Venus Williams. This season, the main tennis court facilities are decked in Lacoste logos, reflecting the ongoing collaboration with the sportswear brand.

Available at the property’s boutique, it features both on and off-court styles, with designs such as polo shirts, pleated skirts, and caps adorned with the crest of Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc and Lacoste’s crocodile logo.

Last month, the hotel also unveiled the second collection of its Sporty & Rich capsule collection. This includes sweatshirts, terry cloth polos, pinstripe pyjama sets, and boxers, integrating references to the hotel, including its iconic buoy and crest.

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At Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, the spa is a destination in itself. It’s located a short stroll away from the main building, around the corner from the rose gardens dedicated to Queen Elizabeth I.

Opened just last year, the Dior Spa Eden-Roc is a serene haven. Outdoor cabana chairs decked in the house’s signature toile de jouy fabric greet guests at its outdoor garden entrance. Inside, the elegant spa offers a host of treatments for the face and body across three individual treatment rooms and a private outdoor gazebo for two.

In the main spa, its lower floor offers a host of experiences such as hydrotherapy in an onyx affusion shower room, and a dedicated Iyashi Dome room for detox and slimming. 

Exhausted from our travels, I booked the 60-minute Constellation body massage in a bid to help unwind and relax deeply. The therapist melded a series of slow and enveloping strokes for my entire body, unravelling long-held knots one by one.

If you’re no newbie to the South of France, there’s little need to leave the resort for a gourmet experience. We quickly learn that dinners are elegant affairs to look forward to, beginning with the ritual of pre-dinner drinks. For your first evening, have a tipple at Bar Bellini, the hotel’s signature bar in its main building. Order the iconic Eden-Roc Splash, first concocted in 1934, or enjoy a glass of champagne on the terrace, taking in bucolic garden views. 

Alternatively, visit the elegant Bar La Rotonde, the aforementioned tearoom that was once a Côte d’Azur institution, to savour the quiet tinkle of music from a live pianist. This is best followed by dinner at the adjacent one-Michelin-starred Louroc Restaurant, which offers the best of Mediterranean and Provence cuisine. For a comprehensive experience of Chef Sébastien Broda’s culinary flair, order the tasting menu for dishes which include fresh produce from the hotel’s own garden and local markets, fish from small-scale fisheries, and speciality meats.

Highlights include slow-cooked sea bass sea bass bell; locally caught stuffed squid; as well as mature cheeses from remote areas around France and desserts by new executive pastry chef Tarek Ahamada which resemble delicately assembled art pieces. Alongside impeccable service and tableware crafted by Provençal artisans, guests can enjoy their meal with stunning views of the Mediterranean.

The Grill offers a more coastal-inspired dining experience with unblocked views of the Lérins Islands and the Mediterranean. Waiters in Mariniere striped shirts serve up Mediterranean dishes and delicacies from the fish bar, which serves ceviche, carpaccio, tartare and marinated fish with an emphasis on the local catch of the day. In the day, the vibe is decidedly more relaxed, with guests enjoying the sunshine in the al fresco space, and by the pool.

In the summer, the hotel’s outdoor dining spaces come alive. There is the Eden-Roc Lounge, located on the rooftop of the sea-facing Eden-Roc Pavilion; Giovanni’s, an intimate outdoor Italian restaurant in the garden; and the Juice and Ice Cream Bar.

If you’re vacationing in the summer, reserve a seaside cabana for the day, a quintessential Riviera experience since the 1930s. Set within a grove of centuries-old pine trees, these 33 rustic cabins have hosted iconic figures such as Picasso, Chagall, Marlene Dietrich, photographer Jacques Henri Lartigue, and the Kennedy family. Ribboning the hotel’s rocky Mediterranean shorelines, they were created for sunbathing and splashing in the sea and can be transformed into private dining spaces.

Three days in, we were heartbroken to leave. It’s no wonder many never do. Many staff members return season after season, with some staying for as long as 42 years. Guests share the same sentiments; eight out of ten are repeats, with families returning year after year for generations.

With its Gatsby-era reputation, luxury trimmings, and legendary charm, the hotel feels like a home away from home. The stuff of fables and legends, sure, but it’s also a timeless escape that keeps drawing people back.  The reason is clear: there’s no place quite like Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc.

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