Cover andBeyond’s first Asian lodge in Bhutan
andBeyond’s first Asian lodge in Bhutan
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Luxury experiential travel company andBeyond opens its first Asian lodge in Bhutan to showcase the country’s natural beauty in all of its glory
Bhutan’s concept of Gross National Happiness is more than a simplistic measurement of the feeling of being happy. It is actually a framework that recognises that well‐being is influenced by a wide range of factors, including a flourishing natural environment.
Indeed, the breathtaking Himalayan kingdom has been abundantly blessed with natural wonders, from spectacular mountain ranges and gushing rivers to lush valleys and thriving forests. All it takes is that first invigorating inhale of fresh mountain air after the iconic plane descent in between towering mountains to land on a narrow airstrip in Paro for our steps to lighten.
For an even more meaningful retreat, luxury safari and travel company andBeyond has launched its first lodge in Asia in a picturesque corner of Bhutan. Cradled by Himalayan mountains in Punakha Valley, the andBeyond Punakha River Lodge on the banks of the Mo Chu River enjoys moderate temperatures all year round due to its slightly lower elevation.
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Above The sitting room and bar at the andBeyond Punakha River Lodge
The sitting room and bar at the andBeyond Punakha River Lodge
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True to the South African company’s ethos of melding luxury with natural beauty, just about every element of the Punakha River Lodge’s thoughtful design has been conceived to create a retreat that envelops guests in nature. Like other andBeyond lodges and camps in Africa and South America, the Bhutan lodge draws inspiration from its locality. The property features
six tented suites as well as a two‐bedroom villa with a private pool and a one‐bedroom villa that has a plunge pool or hot tub, depending on the season. The villas are undoubtedly plush and luxurious, but for a unique stay rooted in a sense of place, pick the tents, which are a standout in a country known for an abundance of ultra‐luxe accommodation—no other destination currently offers glamping in such high style.
The safari‐style tents are pitched in Bhutanese timber structures, and the woodwork features intricate painted and gilded details. Other Bhutanese elements include motifs of the blue poppy, the national flower of Bhutan, embroidered on the bath linens, as well as handwoven wool products used as upholstery and blankets.
Elegant brass‐clad bathtubs in the bathrooms are particularly stunning with their strategic placement under a skylight. The 80‐square‐metre tented suites are also built with outdoor decks, and come with a writing desk and generously stocked bars with handsome crystal liquor decanters. There is even a thoughtful service window for a butler to discreetly leave a morning beverage and freshly baked cookies during early wake‐up calls.
Most of all, though, we appreciate the immersion into the local environment. The lodges are seemingly casually scattered across the estate, but are in fact carefully positioned at least 20 metres apart from one another to ensure privacy. The gentle swish of the river can be discerned at every lodge and this meditative hum becomes a nightly lullaby.
The broad swathe of open space is not accidental either. The brand has situated the Punakha River Lodge on only about 25 per cent of its land. The rest has been allocated to local farmers who supply the hotel with crops, hence creating a ready market for their produce.
Above The well‐appointed bathroom in the tented suite
The well‐appointed bathroom in the tented suite
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Speaking of, South African chef Rudolf van der Westhuizen further elevates the fare with his unique approach that blends contemporary culinary techniques with local flavours. At lunch, pulled yak meat bao buns sit alongside sticky roasted aubergine with tahini, goji berries and goat cheese. In the evening, he shows off his knife skills by gutting and slicing a river trout while chatting with us before preparing a fresh, tangy ceviche with charred corn salsa and pineapple chilli jelly.
All this wholesome nosh and meditative rest put us in the right frame of mind for some exploration. To bring a touch of safari life to the Himalayas, the guides and lodge staff incorporate wildlife spotting into the activities for guests. Our excursions are often peppered by someone calling out the names of exotic‐sounding bird species such as the long‐tailed shrike, the white‐capped redstart and the Indian white‐eye, and we find ourselves growing to appreciate the brief glimpses of these pretty birds darting among the treetops. This area is also home to the critically endangered white‐bellied heron as well as the Himalayan black bear, red panda, leopard and Bengal tiger. We hear there are plans to introduce more wildlife‐related activities.
The famed Tiger’s Nest monastery
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To get the heart rate soaring, there is seasonal white‐water rafting and year‐round mountain biking. Guests may also choose to go hyperlocal with a relaxing sojourn to the nearby village, where friendly locals will humour their amateurish attempts at sifting rice and curious kids will run out of their homes to pose for a selfie. For cultural immersion, there is Punakha Dzong, one of Bhutan’s oldest, largest and most striking fortified monasteries that is a magnificent showcase of the country’s unique architecture and just 20 minutes away from the lodge by car. Post‐visit, know that an andBeyond sunset surprise lies in store—after all, the team is known to delight guests by adding their own touch to already outstanding experiences.
We rise early one morning for an invigorating 40‐ minute hike up to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten that takes us across a bouncy suspension bridge, through idyllic rice fields and past a giant prayer wheel. The shrine was built by Her Majesty the Queen Mother Ashi Tshering Yangdon Wangchuck to protect and bless the people and the present king. When we arrive, we are directed up another gentle hill, atop which sits a breakfast spread of pastries, muesli and fresh fruit that the bright‐eyed team members have already set up.
Above Punakha Dzong, one of Bhutan’s oldest, largest and most striking fortified monasteries
Punakha Dzong, one of Bhutan’s oldest, largest and most striking fortified monasteries
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We are so gobsmacked by the indulgence of it all, it takes about 15 minutes of endless photo‐taking before we finally settle down. As we savour our food, the breathtaking beauty of the shrine nestled among the mountainscape finally sinks in and we spontaneously quieten to soak in the moment. Now that is magic in the making.
HIGHLIGHTS OF BHUTAN
What to do and where to stay in the country’s two main cities, Thimphu and Paro
Above Postcard Dewa
Postcard Dewa
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THIMPHU
Located about an hour’s drive from Paro, where the airport is located, the capital city of Thimphu is the country’s beating heart for art, culture and architecture. Spend a night or two here to fully take in its unique Bhutanese‐inflected cosmopolitan charm, from its lone “traffic light” at its busiest crossroads—in fact a policeman at a roundabout—to its various government buildings built in the style of traditional architecture.
Unique handicrafts can be found at the Jungshi Handmade Paper Factory, where high‐quality decorative paper is hand‐made from the bark of the daphne and dhekap trees according to traditional techniques. Or visit the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre—which produces ceremonial textiles for Bhutanese royalty—for some of the finest hand‐woven textiles and garments.
Stay at Postcard Dewa (pictured above), a tastefully designed five‐star hotel by the Indian‐owned hospitality group The Postcard Hotel. The interiors are spacious and feature Bhutanese motifs, while the cuisine is a blend of delights inspired by local ingredients, such as high‐altitude buckwheat pancakes and Indian comfort food.
Above Amankora, Bhutan Paro lodge
Amankora, Bhutan Paro lodge
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PARO
The famed Tiger’s Nest monastery that clings improbably to the edge of a Himalayan cliff face needs no introduction. Also stop by Ta Dzong, a former watchtower that is now the National Museum of Bhutan, where curated collections of relics and artefacts offer insights into the country’s culture and history.
For an authentic slice of Bhutanese life, most hotels and tour guides can arrange for a visit to a local farmhouse, where you can have a meal served family‐style, while seated around a charcoal hearth for warmth. Expect a feast of delicious local treats, including momo dumplings, dried pork stew and plenty of seasonal vegetables. If you are lucky, your host might even break out a bottle of ara, a local grain alcohol.
Stay at Amankora, Paro, one of five serene Aman lodges spread across Bhutan. Built in the brand’s signature contemporary minimalist design, the generously sized lodges ooze luxury with outstanding fittings such as full‐length banquette window seats and terrazzo‐clad bathtubs.
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