Cover The Jaro Belfry is among the most visited sites in Iloilo City
The Jaro Belfry is among the most visited sites in Iloilo City
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Rich in history and local flavours, Iloilo is a gem that captivates guests with its perfect blend of cultural and heritage sites, along with the modernities of the present and a delectable cuisine that’s truly its own
Often referred to as the “City of Love”, Iloilo is an inviting destination that displays a perfect balance between its historic past and its vibrant present. Its rich heritage is evident in its Spanish-colonial architecture and grand old churches. What’s even more admirable is how this city ensures these treasures are meticulously preserved for the present generations to use and enjoy.
“Before the pandemic, we started planning about the restoration of the plazas. Together with [then] Senator Franklin Drilon, we were able to get funding from the National Historical Commission of the Philippines [NHCP] to restore the Jaro Belfry which was destroyed during an earthquake in the 1940s after the war,” says former Iloilo City Mayor Jerry Treñas.
Along with Drilon, Treñas worked together with the renowned landscape architect and urban planner Paulo Alcazaren in restoring the plazas in Iloilo, a project that included, among others, the Jaro Plaza, the iconic statue of Ilonggo journalist and propagandist Graciano Lopez Jaena and the Molo Plaza.
Being an old city, Iloilo is also home to centuries-old churches. “Go around the city and you will see all the old churches,” adds Iloilo-born Drilon. “One of the must-visit old churches is the Molo Church, which features a beautiful ceiling mural depicting the Pentecost and the four evangelists,” says Treñas.
Above One of the ancestral houses in Iloilo City
One of the ancestral houses in Iloilo City
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Visitors must also explore the many heritage houses that dot the city. Most of these homes have undergone restoration for adaptive reuse. “Balai Remedios and Balai nga Bato were repurposed into restaurants,” says Treñas. Just like the two houses previously mentioned, the Molo Mansion is another example of an old structure given a second life with adaptive reuse. Steven Tan, president of SM Supermalls, shares: “The Molo Mansion stands as one of SM’s visionary initiatives in cultural preservation and inclusive growth. At its core is Kultura, SM’s homegrown retail brand that celebrates Filipino craftsmanship.” The Molo Mansion also serves as a platform for micro, small and medium enterprises (MSMEs), giving them a prestigious space to reach a wider audience. “By weaving heritage with economic empowerment, the Molo Mansion reinforces Iloilo’s identity as a city that honours its past while creating opportunities for the future,” Tan adds. The Molo Mansion, along with other beautifully preserved heritage homes, were featured in the award-winning book, Houses that Sugar Built: An Intimate Portrait of Philippine Ancestral Homes by Gina Consing McAdam and Siobhan Doran.
Serving as another window to the past is Calle Real (also dubbed the “Royal Street”), a key economic hub during the Spanish and American colonial periods. “Calle Real used to be the primary commercial centre of Iloilo. It had the old trading houses because it is near the Iloilo port,” says Drilon, speaking of the area that was declared a Heritage Zone by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) in 2014. Treñas shares that ongoing efforts to restore the old buildings and structures around Calle Real are in place. There is an effort also to implement an underground cabling system to enhance the area’s visual appeal and repaint the facade of the buildings for uniformity.
Read also: What makes Iloilo City a food haven? New book by Ige Ramos celebrates Ilonggo gastronomy
Above Forr San Pedro at sunset
Forr San Pedro at sunset
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While Iloilo proudly preserves its heritage, it has also embraced modernity with a visionary spirit. From the scenic Iloilo River Esplanade and the newly opened Sunset Boulevard, to the state-of-the-art Iloilo Convention Center and the sprawling Iloilo Business Park, a new urban chapter for the city is fast unfolding.
Drilon is proud of the Iloilo River Esplanade, known as one of Iloilo City’s most prominent sustainable landmarks. This 8.1-kilometre linear park is the longest in the Philippines and “the only one of its kind in the country”. He notes that it’s a testament to their vision of a greener city partially achieved by cleaning and reviving the Iloilo River alongside the Esplanade.
Real-estate giants Megaworld and SM are key players in the modern developments in Iloilo City. Megaworld developed the Iloilo Business Park, a 72-hectare township built on the spot where the old Mandurriao airport used to be, as Drilon remarked. Recently declared as Iloilo City’s Center of Arts and Culture, the Iloilo Business Park is a township that highlights the Iloilo Museum of Contemporary Art, the Brandy Museum and the Iloilo Convention Center. “We are one with the llonggos towards the goal of helping boost their artistic and cultural identity as well as its city’s booming tourism industry,” says Lourdes Gutierrez-Alfonso, president and CEO of Megaworld.
Above Inside the Molo Mansion as featured in the award-winning book, Houses that Sugar Built: An Intimate Portrait of Philippine Ancestral Homes by Gina Consing McAdam and Siobhan Doran
Inside the Molo Mansion as featured in the award-winning book, Houses that Sugar Built: An Intimate Portrait of Philippine Ancestral Homes by Gina Consing McAdam and Siobhan Doran
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On the other hand, SM, through a transformative Public-Private Partnership (PPP), redevelops the Iloilo Central and Terminal Markets, an initiative that modernises key public spaces while preserving their cultural and historical significance. “More than infrastructure, the project empowers thousands of vendors, boosts local commerce and promotes sustainable tourism. For citizens, it means better access to goods, safer facilities and renewed pride in their city. For visitors, these markets become vibrant cultural gateways showcasing authentic Ilonggo flavours, crafts and daily life,” explains Tan. The Iloilo Central and Terminal Market Redevelopment is set to open in the last quarter of 2025.
Beyond its visual charm, Iloilo boasts a culinary scene that truly sets it apart, earning its designation as a Unesco Creative City for Gastronomy in 2023. From the comforting warmth of La Paz batchoy to exquisite fresh seafood, the city promises a delightful journey for the palate. Other popular dining destinations for fresh seafood and authentic Ilonggo cuisine featuring the ever-popular chicken inasal (local grilled chicken) are Tatoy’s and Breakthrough–both vetted by Treñas and Drilon whose taste buds are 100 per cent Ilonggo.
Above Built in 1928 by Don Vicente Lopez and his wife Doña Elena Hofilena, the Nelly Garden is one of Iloilo City’s original heritage homes. Image featured in the award-winning book, Houses that Sugar Built: An Intimate Portrait of Philippine Ancestral Homes by Gina Consing McAdam and Siobhan Doran.
Built in 1928 by Don Vicente Lopez and his wife Doña Elena Hofilena, the Nelly Garden is one of Iloilo City’s original heritage homes. Image featured in the award-winning book, Houses that Sugar Built: An Intimate Portrait of Philippine Ancestral Homes by Gina Consing McAdam and Siobhan Doran.
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Where to Go
Ancestral Houses
A glorious mansion owned by the Villanuevas, Balai Remedios was transformed into a rustic restaurant serving a combination of Filipino, Ilonggo and Spanish cuisines. Meanwhile, Balai nga Bato (also known as Avanceña-Camiña Balai nga Bato) was turned into a museum and a dining place where guests can enjoy, among many other menu items, its famous tablea. Made from finely ground roasted cacao beans, the tablea is prepared as tsokolate de batirol, a decadent beverage oozing with the comforting taste that embodies the Philippines’ rich history of cacao cultivation and traditional chocolate production techniques. Built in 1865, the Balai nga Bato was declared an Important Cultural Property by the National Museum of the Philippines in 2015.
Another heritage home in Iloilo is Nelly Garden, a Beaux-Arts mansion built in 1928 by Don Vicente Lopez and his wife Doña Elena Hofilena. It is open to the public for tours, weddings, private dinners, photoshoots and other events.
Above Calle Real remains a commercial hub in Iloilo City; Iloilo River Esplanade
Calle Real remains a commercial hub in Iloilo City; Iloilo River Esplanade
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Calle Real and the Museums
On the corner of Calle Real (now called JM Basa Street) lies the first and oldest department store in the Philippines, Hoskyn’s Compound, established by Henry Hoskyn, a former employee of Smith, Bell and Company based in Manila and nephew of Nicholas Loney, who was then British vice consul in Iloilo.
Not far away from Hoskyn’s Compound is the Museum of Philippine Economic History. “It used to be the Ynchausti y Compania Trading House,” says Drilon, who encourages tourists to visit the other museums, too, most of which are restored buildings of historical importance. He cites the old Customs House or the Aduana Building, now converted to the Museum of Philippine Maritime History; the old provincial jail, where the National Museum of the Philippines–Iloilo now stands; and the University of the Philippines Visayas (UPV) building that has been transformed into UPV Museum of Art and Cultural Heritage.
Above Jaro Belfry just a few meters away from the church and the plaza
Jaro Belfry just a few meters away from the church and the plaza
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Old Churches
Must-visit is the Molo Church (or the Sta Ana Parish) and the adjacent Convento de Molo. The church structure was built in 1888 and used as an evacuation centre during the Second World War.
Pilgrims can also check out the third-oldest Santo Niño image in the Philippines (the oldest in Cebu, and the second oldest in Tondo), which can be found at the Archdiocesan Shrine of Santo Niño de Arevalo. The centuries-old Santo Niño de Arevalo is a wooden image of the Child Jesus brought by the Spanish Governor General Gonzalo Ronquillo de Peñalosa in 1581 to La Villa Rica de Arevalo (now Villa Arevalo). It is said to have survived the trials of history, from the Dutch and Moro raids, fires and even earthquakes.
Above The Iloilo River Esplanade is a linear park along the Iloilo River
The Iloilo River Esplanade is a linear park along the Iloilo River
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The Plazas
Being an old city, the districts of Iloilo follow the traditional Spanish city planning where each has its plaza, a municipal hall and a church. From Jaro Plaza, one can easily walk to the Campanario de Jaro (Jaro Belfry), a historic watchtower built in the 1740s as a defence structure and a bell tower for the nearby Jaro Cathedral. Unlike other bell towers, the Jaro Belfry stands separately from the cathedral building, which was uncommon in colonial times.
“We also have Plaza Libertad, a historic square formerly known as Plaza Alfonso XII, named after a Spanish king,” Treñas explains. “It was renamed Plaza Libertad in December 1898 when the last Spanish forces in Iloilo surrendered, and the Philippine flag was first raised here.”
Above A mural by the Sigahum Artists
A mural by the Sigahum Artists
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Modern Iloilo
Check out the Iloilo River Esplanade, which was awarded prestigious accolades, including the 2024 Asian Townscape Award in Fukuoka and the Haligi ng Dangal Award for Best Landscape Architecture from the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA).
Do not miss the Iloilo Museum of Contemporary Art and the Brandy Museum, both within the Iloilo Business Park. Also within the township is the Iloilo Convention Centre, where cultural events showcase the rich Ilonggo culture and tradition.
Drilon is also proud of the newly minted Iloilo Sunset Boulevard, a 4.9-kilometre road stretching from the Megaworld complex in Mandurriao to the town of Oton. “It is a beautiful tree-lined avenue which connects the city to the first town outside it. It was constructed and finished only this year,” he says.
Above Pancit Molo
Above La Paz batchoy. Image: Grace Park
Pancit Molo
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What to Eat
Apart from its interesting sights, Iloilo is also popular for its distinct cuisine. No visit is complete without slurping a piping hot bowl of La Paz batchoy, a hearty noodle soup dish recognised by Taste Atlas as the third best offal soup in the world. Old-time favourites like Netong’s and Ted’s are always good places to enjoy this dish.
Another popular Ilonggo dish is the Pancit Molo, Iloilo’s local version of the dumpling soup. One of the most authentic version of this dish can be found at Kap Ising, a homegrown eatery that started in the Twenties. Now managed by the family’s third generation, Kap Ising continues to reach greater heights, participating in this year’s International Gastronomy Promenade in Macau alongside Netong’s Batchoy and Sunbursts Balay Tablea.
They say there is a separate stomach for desserts, and Iloilo’s sweet treats will not disappoint. There’s the iconic Biscocho Haus, Carlo’s Bakeshop and Panaderia de Molo, where the city’s best biscocho, butterscotch and barquillos can be found. Do not forget to bring some home!
Above Dinagyang Street Dance Festival in Iloilo City. Image: Getty Images
Dinagyang Street Dance Festival in Iloilo City. Image: Getty Images
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When to Go
While Iloilo can be enjoyed year-round, one can also consider timing their visit to experience some of the city’s major festivals, such as the Dinagyang (held in January), Iloilo Paraw Regatta Festival (February) and Iloilo Arts Festival (October), among others. Pilgrims also come to Iloilo during the Lenten Season to do the Visita Iglesia, visiting remarkable Catholic churches.
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Credits
Images: Arnold Almacen; courtesy of Iloilo City Local Government
Whether on assignment or not, Maritess is always on the lookout for off-the-beaten-path destinations as well as the yummiest finds in the Philippines and abroad. In 2020, she plunged into the black hole of Korean la la land. Follow her escapades at @matetreyes.
