What makes Iloilo City a food haven? New book by Ige Ramos celebrates Ilonggo gastronomy

“Ige reminds us that food never emerges in isolation,” added Dr Eric Babazar Zerrudo, executive director for the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA). “Food is culture made tangible; it is history made flavourful; it is geography served on a plate. And in the case of Iloilo—a city where culinary legacy traces back to its Austronesian roots through Spanish colonisation, Chinese trade and the enduring innovations of Ilonggo creativity—gastronomy becomes a profound expression of identity, memory and community.”

Gastronomic Expressions of Our City Iloilo: Nature, Culture, and Geography is thoughtfully divided into six major chapters, highlighting its nuanced approach. The first, written by Ramos, presents its multidisciplinary framework, while the subsequent chapters explore and analyse the various influences that impact Iloilo City’s gastronomy: geography, ethnicity, ingredients and technology. Finally, these lenses come together in the final chapter with recipes curated by Mrs Treñas. The publication is a proud display of local talent, with contributions by Ilonggo writers and illustrators. Dr Zerrudo and Mayor Treñas likewise share heartfelt stories in the book’s preface and introduction, following a foreword by Department of Tourism Secretary Christina Garcia Frasco.

Read more: Sowing seeds of hope: how Tancho Baes is transforming lives through farming

To commemorate the occasion, Manila House’s culinary team prepared a six-course tasting menu featuring recipes from the book: a simple ensaladang dahon ng kamote, crispy mushroom lumpia, adobo nga lucos with a tasty sauce that led some guests to request a side of white rice and a beautifully tender lengua estofado, plus maruya (banana fritters), muasi (palitaw) and suman latik.

The Ilonggo Valenciana was a memorable highlight, made with a base of delightfully sticky rice with a warm spice profile that closely resembles the cuisines of our Southeast Asian neighbours, plus shrimp, chicken, egg, bell peppers and a curious addition of Chinese sausage or lap cheong. Yet named after the famed Spanish city of Valencia, the humble dish represents Iloilo’s rich history of trade and colonialism and how the city has emerged with its own distinct cuisine—both because of and despite it all.

See also: What is 7 Hectares and why is it important? Inside the “self-healing” fish farm in Negros

As guests tucked into the Ilonggo feast, panellists divulged more about the year-long project. Joining Ramos on-stage were renowned food writer Micky Fenix, who served as the publication’s editor; chef Miguel Cordova, one of the book’s contributing writers and Vibal’s Gelo Lopez, who moderated the discussion.

“As a Unesco Creative City of Gastronomy, like other creative cities, you need to have a very distinct program to be able to retain the crown,” said Ramos. “Gastronomic Expressions of Our City Iloilo: Nature, Culture, and Geography is not just a cookbook, but actually, a framework that other cities and other LGUs can use as a template for food mapping,” he continued, explaining that the framework is designed to promote sustainable practices within Iloilo’s food culture, in alignment with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. “It's not about any single author of the book. It’s very important that the Ilonggo voices are properly represented. I’m just there as a midwife.”

Read more: Understanding the global cacao shortage and how it impacts the Philippines

Originally a book designer, Ramos admitted he “came to food writing very late in my career. I was already in my ‘40s.” Through his new imprint with Vibal, Gastronomía Filipina, he hopes to “pay it forward to the voices in Philippine gastronomy.”

“We are encouraging young writers to sign up,” he declared. “I want to shepherd the careers of young food writers—and we need that badly to promote Filipino food.”

NOW READ

These farmers grow your food, but can’t afford to eat—this social enterprise is changing that

Why these 8 Filipino sites deserve Unesco World Heritage status

All the new restaurants in the Tatler Best Philippines Guide 2025

Gastronomic Expressions of Our City Iloilo: Nature, Culture, and Geography is now available for purchase online, as well as in leading bookstores nationwide. Stay tuned for more titles by Guillermo “Ige” Ramos under the Gastronomía Filipina imprint, soon.