Cover In ‘Kayumanggi’, chef Jam Melchor curates 150 dishes from across the Philippines to reclaim forgotten recipes and challenge how we define authenticity in Filipino food (Photo: Jam Melchor)
In ‘Kayumanggi’, chef Jam Melchor curates 150 dishes from across the Philippines to reclaim forgotten recipes and challenge how we define authenticity in Filipino food (Photo: Jam Melchor)
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As globalisation changes our palate, Jam Melchor fights to preserve Filipino food heritage, reminding us that to forget our food is to forget ourselves
In a tranquil home in Pampanga, a young Jam Melchor stood beside his grandmother, eyes wide as she stirred a heavy pot of bringhe over a wood fire. The air smelled of turmeric and coconut milk, and the clinking of ladles, the rustling of banana leaves, the soft crackle of flame. These were the early sounds of his culinary education.
“I didn’t set out to become a chef at first,” Melchor says. “But food was always a constant in my life. Every celebration revolved around the kitchen.” Raised in Pampanga—the region often referred to as the culinary heartland of the Philippines—Melchor grew up watching his lolas (grandmothers) cook with precision and pride that made even a humble kilayin feel sacred.
It was in these kitchens that he began to understand that Filipino food is more than just sustenance. “Meals were treated with reverence,” he recalls. “I realised that our food—so rich in history, identity and meaning—deserved more attention, more advocacy. I felt called to be its storyteller and protector.”
That calling finds its most ambitious expression yet in Kayumanggi: A Kaleidoscope of Filipino Flavors and Food Traditions, a 400-page compendium of 150 regional recipes drawn from over a decade of travelling across the archipelago.
What it means to be ‘Kayumanggi’
Born in the stillness of the pandemic, Kayumanggi was Melchor’s response to a haunting question: what happens to a culture when its food is forgotten?
“I realised we needed a deeper, broader documentation of our foodways—something that honoured our regional diversity while embracing a shared Filipino identity,” he says.
From beloved classics like adobo and sapin-sapin to dishes like sutukil and the controversial kinalas, the book is more than a collection of recipes. Each dish is presented with cultural context and history, brought to life through engaging illustrations and thoughtfully written headnotes.
To call it just a cookbook would be a disservice. Kayumanggi is, in Melchor’s words, “a cultural declaration.”
Released with support from the Department of Trade and Industry, Kayumanggi doesn’t try to polish Filipino food into fine dining fare. It does not apologise for vinegar, for funk, for fish sauce, but instead, it celebrates the food as it is alive, complex, regional and rooted.
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“The term ‘kayumanggi’ itself refers to the rich brown skin of the Filipino people, a symbol of our identity, resilience and shared history… It’s an invitation to celebrate who we are, where we come from and what we bring to the world through food,” he says. “It’s my love letter to our people.”
Recipes as resistance
The book was a 10-year journey across the archipelago: from the mountain kitchens of the Cordilleras in Luzon to the briny coastal recipes of the Visayas and the layered, spice-laden dishes of Mindanao.
“The selection process was meticulous and deeply heart-driven,” Melchor explains. He sought out familiar dishes that have often been misunderstood, misrepresented or diluted by time and globalisation. “I wanted to make sure these dishes could be done correctly, especially by the new generation of Filipinos—whether they’re in the provinces or living abroad,” he says. “When we learn to cook our food properly, with intention and respect for its roots, we deepen our connection to who we are.”
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Among the 150 recipes in Kayumanggi, one holds a special place in his heart: bringhe. “It’s a festive rice dish from Pampanga often likened to the Filipino version of paella,” he says. Bringhe is made with glutinous rice, coconut milk, turmeric and a medley of meats and vegetables, traditionally cooked in banana leaves. “It reminds me of family gatherings, fiestas and the warmth of home. It’s comfort food elevated into a cultural statement.”
And yet, 150 recipes hardly scratch the surface. “Truth be told, 150 recipes are not enough. I have hundreds more I still hope to share.” Due to budget constraints and publishing limitations, Melchor had to make tough decisions on what made the final cut. Still, he hopes to publish a second volume of Kayumanggi to continue what he began.
Filipino food -- changing your perspective
More than just instructing Filipinos how to cook, Melchor wants them to understand what each dish represents. “I hope Kayumanggi becomes a resource for educators, a companion for home cooks, and an inspiration for the next generation of chefs.”
It also serves as a corrective to the ongoing misrepresentations of Filipino food abroad and at home. “Filipino cuisine is often underrepresented on the global stage and misunderstood within our own communities,” he says.
Read more: Why is Filipino cuisine one of the richest food cultures in the world?
One such example is the fierce debate surrounding sisig. Traditional Kapampangan versions feature chopped pig’s head seasoned with calamansi, onions and chilli. But modern versions in Manila may add mayonnaise or egg—choices driven by city dining trends and fast-food convenience.
Rather than prescribing rigid definitions of “authenticity,” Melchor invites readers to think critically about where dishes come from and what they mean. “Filipino food is dynamic, shaped by migration, trade, colonisation and resilience,” he explains. “Arguing over who owns what can divide us. I think it’s more powerful to acknowledge the many stories and roots that coexist in our cuisine. Let’s celebrate diversity without diminishing each other’s truths.”
Keeping the flame alive
Melchor insists that the responsibility of preserving Filipino food doesn’t rest solely on chefs or cultural institutions. “Family and community traditions are absolutely essential,” he says. “Recipes passed down from generation to generation, dishes prepared during town fiestas and even the shared act of ‘kain na’—these are the lifeblood of our culinary heritage.”
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“Every Filipino is a food bearer. We all have a role to play in keeping our traditions alive, whether through cooking, storytelling, or simply remembering.”
Beyond Kayumanggi, Melchor’s advocacy has shaped national consciousness. He is the driving force behind the Presidential Proclamation that established Filipino Food Month, now celebrated every April. Through events like KAINCON, he brings together chefs, farmers, scholars and policymakers to discuss the future of Filipino cuisine.
In the end, Kayumanggi is more than a book but also a movement, a time capsule, a bridge between generations. It asks Filipinos to look inward—at their tables and the memories, and see value.
“If I can play even a small role in keeping our food traditions alive and inspiring others to do the same,” Melchor says, “then I know I’m on the right path.”
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Syrah is Tatler Philippines’ Power & Purpose editor, where she spotlights extraordinary journeys shaping the Philippines and Asia. She covers business, innovation, impact, and culture—chasing the people, ideas and forces shaping how we live and think today.
