The cultural wanderer’s guide to Batanes

The typical dugout banca seen in the rest of the Philippines is not used in Batanes; instead, the Ivatans use the faluwa or sturdier boats without outriggers locally known as katig as a means of inter-island transportation. The faluwa can withstand strong currents and is safer to be used when crossing the mighty seas surrounding the island province. During bad weather, some of the boats seek refuge at the Mahatao Boat Shelter.

In agricultural lands like the Dibtangan Du Mahatao Farm, where garlic is the main crop, the fields are divided into smaller areas by trees or trellises that act as windbreakers. Since the weather is unpredictable in Batanes, the locals also found ways to store food to make it last longer, especially during days when there are typhoons. For example, the Ivatans have a special way of braiding and hanging garlic for preservation.

They also observe a fishing ritual known as Kapayvanuvanua to ensure a bountiful fishing season and respect for the sea. This ritual involves specific offerings to the sea and follows a prescribed period for catching the prized Arayu fish (mahi-mahi), more popularly known as dorado, particularly between April and May. During this period, the fisherfolk’s daily catch of Arayu is processed for filleting and drying to extend the shelf life of the fish, meant as a reserve during leaner months. These dried goods are then distributed among the community after the closure of the fishing season, where priority is given to locals, and only the excess is sold to non-Ivatans. Because of the tedious process, the Arayu has earned its title: the Ivatan gold.

Another tradition that still lives on in Batanes is the sharing of vunong, a flavourful meal meticulously wrapped in kabaya leaves. A complete meal in itself, it usually contains turmeric rice, lunis (preserved pork adobo-like local dish), uved or uvud (meatballs made of pork or beef mixed with ground banana corm), and fish (usually flying fish).

Batanes is best described as breathtaking, and it is for a good reason. From verdant rolling hills to scenic cliffs and powdery white-sand beaches, Batanes has it, all in its purest, unadulterated form. 

In Basco, the capital town of Batanes, the landscape gracefully unfolds at Vayang Rolling Hills, which command stunning panoramic views of verdant slopes and the vast expanse of the sea. Meanwhile, in Mahatao, the beautiful pastureland Racuh A Payaman beckons, giving captivating vistas framed by Mount Iraya in the distance on a clear day. This iconic landscape, often dotted with grazing cattle, epitomises the raw beauty that defines this northern Philippine frontier. 

Another popular site in Batan Island is the Alapad Rock Formation (home to the famous “Blow Ur Horn” signage), an inclined rock facing the Pacific Ocean and was naturally carved by strong water current and tectonic movements. A hill on one side serves as a viewing area for visitors, while the other side features a rocky beach. The rock formation deck also offers a view of the National Museum of the Philippines - Batanes, which was the former site of the Long Range Aid to Navigation Station (LORAN) constructed by the Americans in the Sixties for coastguard purposes and was eventually abandoned in the Seventies. 

On the nearby island of Sabtang is the spectacular Morong Beach, famous for its horseshoe-shaped arch and pristine white sand. Off southeast of Sabtang Island is Lukuy Beach, another white-sand wonder that is also a perfect place to enjoy the freshest catch for lunch. A few kilometres away is Chamantad-Tiñan Viewpoint, the highest viewing site in Sabtang. Renowned for its curvy grass-carpeted scenery, the highest slope hilltop provides the best view of Chamantad Cove. 

Batanes also offers a unique tapestry woven with threads of history, faith, and the arts. History echoes in the weathered stones of the Old Spanish Bridge in Ivana, a testament to the islands’ colonial past, and within the Japanese Tunnel in Basco, a stark reminder of the Second World War. Several lighthouses, such as those located in Naidi, Tayid and Malakdang dot the islands of Batan and Sabtang. These edifices have served as crucial navigational aids for centuries, guiding seafarers through the often-turbulent waters surrounding Batanes and playing a vital role in maritime safety. 

Faith finds its heart in the centuries-old San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao and the picturesque Mount Carmel Chapel in Tukon. Near San Carlos Borromeo Church is the Maywang A Libro Du Vatan (Blank Book Archives), a small library with a collection of 500 blank books where tourists can write and share their memorable experiences in the province. 

The artistic spirit of the Ivatan people finds expression through the legacy of its homegrown artists, including the internationally acclaimed artist Pacita Abad, whose vibrant works can be seen at Fundacion Pacita. Perched on a hill, the once home studio of Abad is now a cosy accommodation, which celebrates the creative roots of the local artists through its Ivatan-inspired, art-filled rooms and suites. 

“Batanes is a gem that is waiting to be shared with the world,” says the Department of Tourism secretary Christina Frasco, who encourages everyone to love Batanes, and ultimately, “Love the Philippines”. Indeed, Batanes deserves all the love and praise. After all, it is the only place in the Philippines that has been declared as a Protected Landscape and Seascape encompassing the entire province. 

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