Getting to know William Dalrymple, the master storyteller bridging time and culture

In his most recent travels through Malaysia to launch his newest book, The Golden Road, Dalrymple shares a candid moment with Tatler as we delve into the mind of a man who has dedicated his life to illuminating the past and the profound. 

See also: From Omotesando to Harajuku: The ultimate shopping guide for Tokyo

What’s the best historical site you’ve ever visited?

I think that at the moment, the one that I was most thrilled to visit was probably Borobudur, which I got to see at the end of lockdown. When it was still closed, I was taken around by the director and for two days, we were alone in this most magical and extraordinary of sites. That, I think, probably stands as one of my most extraordinary and wonderful travel experiences ever.

One book you think everyone should read?

Oh, Lord. I mean, it’s a boring answer, but War and Peace—still the greatest novel ever written. It speaks to every generation. I haven’t read it for a few years and need to reread it because it speaks not only to every generation but to everyone at each stage of their lives. I’d love to reread War and Peace.

Don’t miss: This heroic Malayan war nurse inspired Sangeeta Krishnasamy’s upcoming film

Which historical figure would you have dinner with?

As a historian, you come across so many extraordinary characters, but the one I would definitely like to meet most—although I wouldn’t like to fall out with her—is the Chinese Empress Wu Zetian. She seems to be the most extraordinary woman who ever lived. She took over the Chinese state, made Buddhism the state religion of China, dismissed about 40 ministers (many of whom committed suicide), and was a terrible mother. But she was one of the most powerful women in world history. She’d definitely be on my fantasy dinner party list.

What’s your favourite era in history to explore?

I spent 20 years writing about the transition from Mughal India, when the great Mughal emperors ruled, to this extraordinary, rather dark moment when a British trading company—the East India Company—takes over, and India ends up being controlled out of the boardroom of an office in London. It’s by no means the happiest period—in fact, it’s a very dark one. But I spent 20 years reading about it, studying it, and reading all the letters and diaries of those who lived at that time. I would most dearly love to see whether the conclusions I’ve drawn were right, whether I imagined that period correctly.

That said, there are many other periods I’d love to explore. For example, Tang China would be fascinating, as would high Mughal India—the time of Akbar or Shah Jahan—or perhaps Gupta India, ancient Egypt, or ancient Persia. The list goes on!

For writing, pen or laptop?

For writing, definitely laptop. For taking notes and scribbling in books, a pen.

Favourite Indian dish?

For years, along with my love of Mughal history, I used to love Mughal cooking. But as I’ve become more interested in Hindu and Buddhist history, I seem to be eating more South Indian food—quite often vegetarian dishes from Kerala. I love Kerala fish curry and particularly the prawn dishes. So maybe I’d say prawns or a delicious coconut-based prawn curry. But wow, the food in this part of the world—Malaysia, particularly Penang—was a complete revelation. I’m very glad I don’t live here, only because I’d get fatter and fatter. I’ve never had a worse food coma than in Penang.

Read more: 5 places to dine in Penang, according to Koh Yung Shen of Backdoor Bodega

Podcasts or books?

It has to be both—I can’t choose. They’re different things. Podcasts are wonderful for using dead time, like when you’re driving, stuck in traffic, walking the dog, or doing the washing up. There’s that lovely sensation of learning and educating yourself even while doing a chore. Books, though, are different. They’re the greater pleasure—being somewhere beautiful, ideally by a pool or in front of a wonderful landscape, with a morning free to dive into a book. That’s the greatest pleasure. But both are different and should be enjoyed.

Your two favourite books?

If I’m allowed two, I’d say From the Holy Mountain, about the Christians of the Middle East, and The Last Mughal, about the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar.

Favourite museum in the world?

The Metropolitan Museum in New York. It’s the best museum in the world for history, with the most magnificent collections and the best curators. Its programme of changing exhibitions is extraordinary. Every time I go to New York, I struggle to leave that building—I’ve spent whole weeks there, only leaving to dive out for dinner in the evening.

Best way to unwind after a day of writing?

I’m a great lover of swimming, particularly in a climate like Kuala Lumpur or India. After a day of climbing in the mountains or exploring some dusty site, being able to jump into a pool is one of life’s great pleasures. It’s like listening to a podcast while driving—you feel like you’re improving yourself while doing something pleasurable. Swimming also has that double benefit: keeping fit while enjoying yourself.

See also: Aradhita Parasrampuria’s mission to transform fashion: Bridging biotechnology and design for a sustainable future

If you could visit any ancient civilisation, which one?

That’s so difficult because every ancient civilisation is fascinating. I’d probably change my answer every day. But, in a sense, to try to understand my own native Scotland better, I’d choose the Picts. They left these mysterious symbols, elusive Celtic warbears, monks, and craftsmen. I’d do anything to see what their civilisation actually looked like.

Of the great ancient civilisations, though, to be a young man in Gupta India at the time of Kalidasa writing Shakuntala, Aryabhata working on mathematics, and the Kama Sutra being written—that sounds like a pretty good time in history!

Morning or night person?

I’m definitely one who works in the morning and plays at night. So I don’t know whether that makes me one or the other!

Favourite travel destination?

My favourite travel destination changes, but at the moment, I’d say I’m having a big Southeast Asia moment. I’m planning to spend Christmas in Vietnam, which I’ve never visited. I’ve just had the most wonderful trip through Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, and Hong Kong. I’m planning a trip to Thailand in the spring. For now, Southeast Asia is absorbing a lot of my energy and imagination.

Don’t miss: The cultural wanderer’s guide to Bangkok, Thailand

Biggest takeaway from researching?

It’s understanding just how influential India was in the ancient world. My first book was about the Silk Road, following Marco Polo. So much of Western understanding of ancient Asia is predicated on this idea of the Silk Road. But the Silk Road is not an ancient idea—it’s a modern one. It was invented in 1877 by Baron von Richthofen, a German colonial geographer.

In the ancient period, India was far more central to trade networks than China. It’s only in the 13th century, with the Mongols, that you get a direct east-west motorway stretching from the Mediterranean to the South China Sea. For now, the Golden Road is what’s in my head.

NOW READ

Nga Kor Ming: The man behind the minister, balancing justice, family, and unity

A modern miniature marvel: The all new Royal Oak Mini

The best new watches with elaborate artisanal dials