Cover Fish Moilee Biryani
Fish Moilee Biryani
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The team at Kayra remains committed to authentic South Indian cuisine while celebrating local culture
When one thinks of Kerala cuisine in Malaysia, the name Kayra inevitably pops up. As the restaurant approaches its seventh anniversary in March 2023, Meriam Sophia Alfonso, the founder of Kayra, looks back on her roots.
“My grandfather opened a Kerala restaurant in 1948, and back then, everyone in my family found ways to support the business,” she says. Born into a family of seasoned chefs and restaurateurs, it is no wonder the passion passed on to Alfonso.
Even so, Kayra’s journey has not been a smooth one. “When we first started serving, we were unsure how accepting the public would be of our modernist approach to Kerala cuisine.”
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Above Staple ingredients used in Kerala cuisine
Staple ingredients used in Kerala cuisine
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However, Alfonso and her team were confident of their vision and their food. “Kayra is successful because we managed to break through the mindset about Kerala cuisine, ultimately winning people over through consistency, taste and flavour.”
In 2020, the team faced another all- too-familiar hurdle—the Covid-19 pandemic. “We had to strip our menu back to basics. With sheer perseverance we managed to eventually pull through, which made us stronger.”
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Above Meen Pollichathu
Meen Pollichathu
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Alfonso attributes Kayra’s resilience to her loyal team, many of whom have been with Kayra from the start. “I started my journey handling the butchery section and vegetarian menu at Kayra, and now I head the kitchen. I have grown as a person and professionally in so many ways,” says head chef Sal Sabeel.
Manager Anthony Augustine chimes in: “From the first day Kayra opened its doors, we have gone through so much as a team. I have watched Kayra’s growth with pride, knowing I contributed to it.”
“To me, Kayra is home as it is where everything started for me. As a team, we have overcome so many obstacles together,” adds assistant manager Jijin Thomas.
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Above Dosa Tacos
Above Waffam
Dosa Tacos
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“As Malaysians, we love sharing food. Likewise, I grew up sharing food across the communal dining table,” declares Alfonso.
One of the restaurant’s most loved dishes is a sharing platter in the form of Fish Moilee Biryani. A whole fish is marinated with spices before it’s seared on the grill, and served whole atop fragrant rice with luscious moilee sauce. Alfonso explains that this dish cannot be found in Kerala; rather, each component would have to be ordered separately.
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Prawn mango curry
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As much as it puts a contemporary spin on things, the team at Kayra remains committed to authentic Kerala flavours while also celebrating local culture through signature dishes that also include Kerala dahi puri and prawn mango curry.
“We constantly think of creative and fresh ways to present a contemporary take on classic Kerala fare. Kayra does not attempt to be a traditional Kerala restaurant, but rather a Kerala restaurant in Malaysia, for Malaysians,” Alfonso concludes.
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Credits
Photography: Imran Sulaiman
Prop Styling: Trisha Toh
Art Direction: Liew Chiaw Ching
About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
