Chef-owner Jeremy Gillon
Cover Chef-owner Jeremy Gillon

The chef-owner of the Michelin-starred French restaurant tells us how greens are at the centre of his omakase menus, with proteins as the second act

With an illustrious history within gastronomy, 40-year-old French chef Jeremy Gillon is highly lauded for his impeccable standards and unwavering dedication to his craft. To Gillon, food is deeply personal. His mother was a consummate cook and she was pivotal in cultivating his love for the culinary arts. One of his earliest childhood memories in Deauville he recalls, was of his mother cooking big Brittany artichokes. There was always an enormous artichoke on his kitchen table and whenever he was bored, he would pluck out the leaves, leaving only the heart.

This natural curiosity towards food led to an apprenticeship at a traditional brasserie when he was 14. Within a year, he fortuitously ascended from apprentice kitchen-hand to a pastry cook. Then came the string of Michelin Stars which led to his meteoric rise to fame. Gillon has since expanded his influence on Singapore’s bustling culinary scene with his four-year-old Restaurant Jag. In that space, Gillon draws techniques from cooking traditions around his country and weaves them artfully into a personal mosaic of narratives.

The heart of the French Alps has always been a key inspiration for the chef and at Restaurant Jag, he transports his diners to the unique region through his encyclopaedic library of meticulously sourced herbs. In places where herbs are largely relegated to garnish, Gillon uses them with gleeful relish to their fullest potential, transforming them into textual masterpieces. And at Restaurant Jag, he is also directly educating restaurant patrons about the intricacies of French cuisine. In time, he hopes to elevate diners’ vocabulary of indigenous French herbs and ingredients. With Restaurant Jag, Gillon aims to change the way people see luxury. While he has made his name in the upper echelons of fine dining, his concept of luxury is devoid of pretension. “Luxury is not about the cost of a product but of the time and effort that has been put into it,” he concludes. As the year draws to a close, the French restaurateur discusses his gastronomical theories, finding inspiration, and what the future holds.

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Tell us what your favourite herbs from your edible “herb library” are and why they are particularly meaningful to you?

Jeremy Gillon (JG): I don’t really have a favourite herb. If I had to choose one, it would probably be reine de prés for its rich character and complex flavour and aroma.

Restaurant Jag is a vegetable-centric establishment, where vegetables take the centre stage. How would you inspire diners who dislike their greens to come and try the food at your restaurant?

JG: We want to showcase the beauty of mother earth for every French season. I try to express these products in our menu, focusing on one to two vegetables per dish. We explore the characteristics and see how to bring out the best flavour of each vegetable. The selected vegetable will lead the curation of flavours for the dish, wild-foraged herbs from the alps of Savoie will support and accentuate the flavours, while the protein will complete the dish. For diners who are not keen on vegetables, we’ll offer the same menu and adjust the dishes with proteins that complement the vegetables. We want our guests to trust us and try to rediscover the flavours of vegetables.  

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How do you keep things fresh and relevant for your regular customers?

JG: We don’t have much problem in this area as our menu changes 100 per cent every three months. And within each season, some dishes will evolve as we follow the fruition of the produce or vegetable. For example, if we have September fig, we will design a dish that showcases the fruit for a month. We also work with a range of proteins for each dish in order to bring forth different expressions of the vegetable.

How has your philosophy and approach towards food changed over the years?

JG: For many years, my thought process had always begun with the vegetables we had received. I’d think about how to best express them through the pairing of herbs and protein. My philosophy for this year is to focus on how to deliver better experiences to our guests. Also, to continue to develop and improve our work process, explore new collaborations, and reduce our carbon footprint by looking for wonderful products near us.

Sustainability is a key concept in the culinary world today. How does Restaurant Jag promote sustainability in its food and practices?

JG: Sustainability is very important. We import most of our products from France and we make the effort to make sure that the suppliers in France have a good operating process and respect the earth. We minimise wastage by maximising everything in our recipe. We are also in contact with a few farms around the region and in Singapore to develop better supplies for the future.

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Tatler Asia
Restaurant Jag interior
Above Restaurant Jag interior

Restaurant Jag has enjoyed immense popularity these past couple of years. What makes a restaurant successful?

JG: Consistency is the most important thing. You must be consistent with the concept you want to deliver to your guests. Build an emotional connection and offer guests what they are looking for. We must continue to develop our passion and share this with our guests.

Tell us about one of your creations that best describes you and why.

JG: If I have to describe myself, it will be movement. I like to create new things and dishes for new seasons. We haven’t made the same dish twice since our opening. If I must identify myself in one dish, then it would be this season’s chestnut with green coffee. It has a strong character and is sweet at the same time, which reflects my personality.

Can you share some of your latest gastronomical theories and compositional techniques with us?

JG: Since we opened JAG, I have been thinking about how to make vegetables the central focus of the plate. Our ancestors did not eat so much protein in the past. Historically, protein was only consumed once or twice a week. Our pleasure of eating comes from the love of cooking and enjoying the diversity of fruits and vegetables, as well as the anticipation for the season’s harvest. For many, seasonality has been forgotten. I want people to develop an interest in our food sources and to understand the seasonality of harvest. If you’d like to have a tomato, we should use different techniques to enjoy it, such as fermentation, curing in salt and sugar, pasteurisation, and dehydration. Ideally, we should just be patient and wait for the next harvest to enjoy this product and create unforgettable food memories with it. Just like foie gras: I remember only consuming foie gras towards the end of the year as we celebrated Christmas and New Year. The anticipation created excitement for the festivities. As I savoured that slice of foie gras, it brought back memories of the same piece I had last year, and made me long for it next year.

What does luxury dining mean to you?

JG: Luxury is not just a spoonful of caviar; it is about the emotion you’d experience with this caviar. Even a simple piece of mackerel can be a luxury if you enjoy the experience. Similarly for a wood maker, we will judge his work and the quality of his piece by its aesthetics, the time spent and the message he tries to convey through his craft. On the same note, luxury is not about the age of the bottle but the work that has been put into making it a grand wine.

As the youngest French fine dining establishment recognised with a Michelin star in Singapore, what are your plans for the future? How will you raise the ante?

JG: My plan is to improve the consistency of our offerings and create a better experience for our guests. To grow our team and constantly share our knowledge and passion with them. I would love to develop different concepts with our farmers and artisans. That is the future we are working towards.

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