The three canapes as opening gambits are masterful–the spinach juice with verveine and chayote (don’t even ask) is utterly sumptuous in its precision of flavour, and very nearly as good as the turnip tea (with reine de pres) that follows down the road as a palate cleanser—eight dishes in. The parsley root, frêne and fresh parsley is another excellent couple of mouthfuls before a nigh on perfect dish in the form of exceptionally well-cooked red prawn, kohlrabi and melissa. The pickled kohlrabi is out of this world.

The artichoke with sariette and caviar is another sure-fire winner, with different textures coming through with each different preparation. Delicately smoky, creamy, with a controlled vegetality, this is one of the best dishes (with such seemingly basic ingredients) I have ever tasted.

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Then, Houston, we have a slight problem, because the langoustine tartare (with yacon, sage and a fruit-driven bisque) doesn’t quite work. The assumed complementary antagonism between the elements is off the mark, and the dish, overall, is excessively salty.
 
Like Mighty Mouse, however, the hamachi with savoy cabbage and berce (didn’t I tell you not to ask?) arrives to save the day, with a distinct pepperiness that is palate-tinglingly delightful.

It’s time for another cleanser and one of Gillon’s signature ‘lollipops’; this one with a pear sorbet, bruyère and capers. It’s subtle, refreshing and ever so slightly daring, and I’m ready for my pigeon.

Accompanied by salsify and aubepine (how many times do I have to tell you?), the pigeon is perfectly cooked and has a nicely controlled gaminess that cannot fail to please, but again, the reduction is too reduced in that it may be saltier than required.  

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Desserts at Restaurant Jag are invariably spot on as testified to by the chestnut praline, quince ice cream and dark chocolate sauce (with carvi, naturally–what would the dish be without it?; whatever it might be). This is quite delicious with a fine balance of flavours and the kind of surprising hints and nuances of flavour that characterise so many of Gillon’s great dishes.

A meal at Restaurant Jag is never anything other than a culinary adventure–an odyssey, if you like, of almost Homeric proportions–and I’m probably carping when referring to the shortcomings that I perceived. But then again, that’s what opinions are for, right, and one man’s meat will always be another man’s poisson. I hope you enjoy the multilingual culinary gag.
 
I love this restaurant, and I think that Gillon is a genius, but the autumn menu may need a little tweaking before it fulfils its magnificent potential.

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