“This is sometimes spelled as hinata, which is the Lotud name for hinava.  There are likely as many versions as there are cooks, made with all kinds of fish as well as the flesh of buffalo, wild boar, chicken and snails. This particular hinava, containing the grated heart of the bambangan (badu) and ridged crescents of bitter gourd, is usually linked to the Dusun community in Penampang. They may add slices of torch ginger fruit if luck is on their side.

Some minor preliminary prep is in order: the badu needs to be washed and dried for 2 days before using. This will still be delicious in its absence, so do not worry if you cannot find it.”

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients:

• 1 bambangan seed, prepared as above
• 250g Spanish mackerel fillet, skinned and boned
• 4 tbsp calamansi lime juice
• 125g bitter gourd, deseeded and thinly sliced
• 4 shallots, peeled and cut into thin half-moons
• 2cm ginger, peeled and cut into thin slivers
• 3 red bird’s eye chillies, finely sliced
• 1/4 tsp salt, plus more to taste
• Pinch of sugar
• Freshly ground black pepper

Method:

1. Finely grate the dried bambangan seed and place this in a bowl. Cut the Spanish mackerel fillet into thin slivers. Add to the bowl, then mix in the calamansi juice. Leave for a couple of minutes, or until the fish just crosses over to opacity.
2. Mix in the remaining ingredients and plate up. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and black pepper.

“The jellyfish seized in the waters off Kuching, Ulu Kuala Matu and Sematan are usually red (Rhopilema esculentum) or white (Lobonema smithii). After being cleaned, the celestial beings are pampered with a mixture of salt and alum (now considered toxic), sometimes bicarbonate of soda to encourage out moisture, which is then removed. The treatment is repeated several times before they are finally set out to dry into crinkly, crunchy pads. The entire process can take anywhere between 3 to 6 weeks.

Several species of jellyfish are available on the market and most should work in this salad. They come in varying degrees of saltiness and dryness, so it is best to check with your fishmonger on how to best treat whichever you have selected. The jellyfish I get from Kuching tamu comes already rehydrated, jiggling in a packet slicked with brine.

If you cannot find asam paya, simply add 2 more tbsp of calamansi juice.

This umai is at its best served chilled. Avoid leaving it to its own devices for more than 30 minutes however, as the jellyfish tends to continue releasing liquid, turning its turtleneck of thrilling flavours into a shapeless blouse.”

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients:

• 200g cured jellyfish (see above)
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• 5cm young ginger, peeled
• 4 red chillies, deseeded
• Flesh of 4 asam paya fruits
• 4 shallots, peeled and finely sliced
• 1 habañero chilli, deseeded and finely sliced
• 1 tsp light brown sugar
• 3 tbsp calamansi juice
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 blades sawtooth coriander, finely shredded
• Salt

Method:

1. Wash the cured jellyfish and steep in barely warm water for 4 hours, changing the water several times. Drain, rinse well and cut into thin slices. Place in a bowl.
2. Crush the garlic, half the young ginger, red chillies and asam paya into a paste. Finely sliver the remaining ginger. Stir the paste into the jellyfish, followed by the slivered ginger, shallots, habañero chilli, light brown sugar, calamansi lime juice and black pepper. Leave to stand for 5 minutes, then adjust seasoning with salt if necessary. Strew with the sawtooth coriander. The Melanau would serve this with baked pearls of sago.

“The closest thing I could get to the silvery blue anchovies Susan used were from a Japanese supermarket. I get the ones that are about 3cm long. They seldom need washing or gutting.

She also used the striped cucumber found all over Southeast Asia, the Straight 8. This, thankfully, is the easiest cucumber for me to procure, so I follow suit.”

Serves 6

Ingredients:

• 100g dried anchovies (see above)
• 2 cucumbers, approx. 600g
• 1 small green mango, approx. 150g, unskinned, cut into slivers
• 2 red bird’s eye chillies, finely sliced
• 3 tbsp calamansi lime juice
• 1/2 tsp salt, plus more to taste
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• Pinch of sugar
• Handful of lemon basil leaves

Method:

1. Lightly toast the anchovies in a dry frying pan over medium-low heat. You want them to crisp up slightly without going brown. Tip into a pestle and mortar and lightly crush into splinters. Set aside.
2. Halve the cucumber lengthwise and gouge out the interiors—seeds and flesh—in fat, rough curls, going as close as possible to their skins. Place these in a bowl, discard their skins. Mix in the crushed dried anchovies and the remaining ingredients. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt. Plate up and serve.

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