Chef Carlo Lamagna, recognised as one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs 2021
Cover Chef Carlo Lamagna, recognised as one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs 2021

Portland-based Filipino chef Carlo Lamagna, one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs 2021, on the dishes he craves for and what fills up his pasalubong stash when he returns to the Philippines

Carlo Lamagna's path to becoming one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs 2021 is winding, to say the very least.

His story starts in Detroit, where he spent his early childhood. Even then, Lamagna had developed a strong sense of family and a close relationship with food and produce, raised amidst the genteel sensibilities of the Midwest. Soon after, he and his younger siblings were sent to the Philippines to live with their father and establish a deeper connection with their own Filipino heritage. It was here that an adolescent Lamagna graduated from high school and attended college, where he would eventually be kicked out.

Emboldened with the newfound Filipino culinary knowledge learnt from his father, Lamagna flew back to Detroit, gained restaurant experience working numerous stints around town, and finally enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America. This opened up a world of opportunity after graduation, leading him to Germany, France, and Spain before returning to the US. This time, his destination was Portland, Oregon, set to helm Clyde Commons as its executive chef. But as fate would have it, a serious economic downturn plagued the market, and Lamagna lost his post. 

As they say, fate is a funny thing. This was a challenging, stressful time for Lamagna—but it was precisely these pressures that pushed him to open his very own Filipino restaurant, Magna Kusina.

See also: Two Filipinos Named Best New Chefs 2021: Meet Carlo Lamagna and Thessa Diadem

'gallery right' 'gallery right'
'gallery right' 'gallery right'
Photo 1 of 3 (Photo: Carter Hiyama)
Photo 2 of 3 (Photo: Carter Hiyama)
Photo 3 of 3 (Photo: Carter Hiyama)

Somewhat of a successor to his pop-up concept Twisted Filipino, Magna Kusina is a realisation of Lamagna's love for Filipino food, particularly his affinity for street food and other pulutan fare (more on that, later). Dishes like charcoal-grilled fishballs and isaw, meaty lumpia, and crisp sisig pair excellently with the slew of beer, wine, and Filipino-inspired cocktails on offer. Unafraid to flex his creative muscles, Lamagna continues to expand the menu with creations like beef kilawin (on the menu soon) and has even launched a collaborative Pacific Northwest-Philippine dinner with JEM supper club.

Despite his worldly background, his intentions and inspirations remain rooted in the Philippines, citing his parents as major influences at Magna Kusina and noting his late father, Willie, as the chef he reveres the most. Indeed, his infatuation with our cuisine stirs a rousing hunger whenever he thinks of home. “What I seek out are foods that trigger amazing memories,” he shares, reflecting on the dishes he craves for when he's back in the Philippines.

Read all about Lamagda's favourite eats, bucket-list restaurants, and must-pack pasalubong when he visits, here:

See also: The Food Evangelists: Meet The People Promoting Filipino Cuisine Across The Globe

Tatler Asia
(Photo: Carter Hiyama)
Above Modern filipino food from Magna Kusina (Photo: Carter Hiyama)

What do you miss most on the food/drink front when you are away from the Philippines or haven’t been back for a while? 

A lot of the things I miss on the food and drink front tie into my time living in the Philippines. What I seek out are foods that trigger amazing memories, which I always try to share: street food like isaw and fishballs for sure, lechon manok from Andoks, mami and siopao from Ma Mon Luk ...I could go on for quite a while.

What is the first dish you want to eat when you return, and where do you go for it?

I am going straight to an Andok's or Baliwag for lechon manok, then picking up a bunch of IUD (chicken isaw), mag wheels (pork isaw), and betamax (coagulated chicken blood). Then I'll bring it all home, cook a giant pot of rice, and go to town!

See also: A Taste of Home With Drew Barrymore's Chef, Filipina Pilar Valdes

Do you have a favourite restaurant in the Philippines? For fine dining and for more casual experiences?

Honestly, it has been quite a while since I've been to the Philippines and I haven't really gone out to eat at some of the fancier restaurants. The last time I went home was in 2011, and I didn't get a chance to try out the newer places. I definitely want to try out Toyo Eatery when I get back. I would also love to check out chef JP Anglo's Sarsa, as well as chef Margarita Forés's restaurants. Rodic's Diner was definitely one of my go-tos back in the day, but I usually just go to karinderias or seek out beef pares, bopis, and goto. I love it all!

If you have visitors/guests with you, where do you go to give them a real taste of the Philippines?

I try to take them to the provinces, honestly. My dad was from San Nicolas, Pangasinan, so I would go there. We still have a lot of family out there, and I would definitely introduce them to some great Ilocano home cooking. My mom is from Aparri, Cagayan Valley, so that would be on the list as well. There are just so many differences in cuisine from province to province, it would be amazing to show guests how complex and amazing the food of our country is.

See also: How Are These Chefs Pushing The Boundaries of Filipino Food?

Where do you like to meet up with old friends for food/drinks?

I may be dating myself, but I love Gerry's Grill (now known as Gerry's Restaurant and Bar) or Padi's Point for beers and pulutan.

Any other must-visit food/drink spots when you are back?

So many! Getting bulalo in Tagaytay, seafood at a dampa, Chinese food in Ongpin, Lapid's chicharon. . . there are so many places on my list.

See also: 11 Classic Filipino Dishes Everyone Needs To Try: Sinigang, Adobo, And More

Do you take any food or treats back home with you from the Philippines?

Always. I make sure to bring back tupig, polvoron, pilipit, otap, garlic peanuts, cashews, other childhood snacks that are hard to find here in the US.


Where do you go to find authentic flavours of home where you live?

Here in Oregon, there isn't that large of a Filipino community compared to other states in the country. However, we are starting to see some places open that have their own rendition of our food. ‘Authentic’ is a difficult word to live up to, because what I would find authentic could be totally foreign to other people. If I am craving something, I usually cook for my family—or if I am really lucky and my mom is in town, she would cook up a storm.

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