London-based Guan Chua shares insider tips on his must-go dining spots when he returns to Kuala Lumpur
Through regular supper cubs and pop-ups in London specialising in Nyonya cuisine, Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef Guan Chua expresses his passion for Malaysian food. While Chua has always loved the food he grew up with, he only started cooking professionally later on in life; Chua was a former finance analyst before he applied for culinary school.
Coinciding with the time, Chua was scouted for Channel 4’s The Taste, a cooking reality TV show programme in the UK, during which he was mentored by late food writer and television personality Anthony Bourdain. Other than hosting supper clubs, Chua is also active on his Instagram and blog theboywhoatetheworld.com where he writes about his food and travels.
What do you miss most about being away from Malaysia?
Although London’s food scene is becoming increasingly diverse, Malaysian food is still rather under-represented. For me, nothing beats the sheer abundance, variety and 24/7 availability of food in Malaysia, especially when it comes to street food and hawker favourites. Few cuisines in the world are as multi-cultural and steeped in heritage. Where else can one find a Hainanese chicken rice shop, mamak curry fish head stall, Nyonya restaurant and nasi lemak specialist all side-by-side on the same road? There is zero chance in London of enjoying a fully loaded bowl of curry laksa with cockles at seven in the morning or a roti canai at midnight when you fancy some supper.
What is the first dish you eat when you return to Malaysia and where do you go for it?
One of the first dishes I always crave as soon as I step off the plane and into KLIA is Kak Nik’s ikan patin tempoyak, which is catfish cooked with fermented durian in Pantai Dalam. I must admit, I’m actually not the biggest durian fan as I find it too rich on its own. However, when it is fermented and cooked with local spices like at Kak Nik’s, the end result is a beautifully subtle, tangy and balanced gravy that I could lap up an entire bucket’s worth of with steamed rice. Their meaty ikan patin, sourced from the river waters of Termeloh, have a really clean-tasting flavour too. They poach the fish so well the flesh is still moist and meltingly tender, sponging up all that lovely tempoyak gravy. The hospitality and warm welcome at this family-run restaurant is always fantastic too.