The executive chef of Michelin-starred Art shares his favourite eats when he is back home in Genoa, Italy

Daniele Sperindio’s culinary career has brought him all over the globe. His journey began at the age of 13, in his hometown of Genoa, before crossing continents, training under various Michelin-starred chefs including Grant Achatz at Alinea in Chicago and Yoshihiro Narisawa at Narisawa in Tokyo. 

Today, Sperindio helms Art and dishes up contemporary Italian cuisine. While cooking up neo-Italian delights for guests, he can’t help but be reminded of home. 

Here, he shares some of his favourite Italian delicacies and what he longs for now that he’s far from home. 

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When was your last trip to Italy? How did you spend your holiday there?

Daniele Sperindio (DS): It was unfortunately quite some time ago, in December 2018. It was our first time spending Christmas with the family in a long time. I flew to Genoa with my wife, where we stayed with our family and friends for a week or so before continuing to Budapest for a Christmas holiday with my parents. We had a wonderful time in Budapest eating at outdoor Christmas markets, having chimney cakes and mulled wines.

What do you miss most on the food/drink front when you are away from home or haven’t been back for a while?

DS: There is nothing quite like just going down to a local bakery for a slice of Genovese foccacia—something that can’t be found or replicated anywhere else outside of my region—or popping into a family-run trattoria in the countryside for wild boar pasta, amazing pesto, or a nice bottle of Bonarda. The accessibility of these products at their most original and authentic form is something I miss a lot.

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If you have visitors/guests with you, where do you ensure you always go to give them a real taste of Italy?

DS: I’d start with some must-visit destinations from my region, like village-hopping in Cinque Terre for anchovies and white wine, and Santa Margherita for beautiful violet prawns and bianchetti (whitebait). Then, we’ll leave my region and head to Florence (I love Tuscany) for art and a juicy Fiorentina steak, washed down with a bottle of Brunello. I’ll end the tour in the immortal city of Rome, where we’ll soak in the profound history of Rome while enjoying some Coda alla Vaccinara (oxtail stew) or a hearty plate of Spaghetti Amatriciana.

What are your favourite heritage dishes and where are some of the places you go to find them?

DS: Basil pesto is one of my region’s most representative dishes. When I am home, I always make sure to stop by Seisoletti, an extremely humble, unassuming little trattoria located in the outskirts of Genova. They make one of the best basil pesto with fresh pasta in town, as well as a delicious farinata (a thin crispy chickpea cake) that’s cooked in a wood-fired oven. Another favourite of mine is the stoccafisso accomodato, which is a Ligurian-style stockfish stew cooked with potatoes, green olives, porcini and a touch of anchovies—I enjoy the one from Osteria del Bai. For a quick afternoon snack, I’d visit a well-known hole-in-the-wall panini shop located by the port called Grand Ristoro. They make delicious papera bread that’s stuffed with veal tongue, salsa verde and pickles.

What is the first dish you eat when you return and where do you go for it?

DS: Absolutely a slice of Genovese focaccia topped with white onions—it tastes of childhood. There are several great bakeries that provide excellent focaccia all over town. I generally visit the one nearest to my house that is still owned and operated by the same family.

Do you have a favourite restaurant in Italy? For fine dining and for more casual experiences?

DS: To be honest, there are so many restaurants it’s hard to choose. For fine dining, I really enjoy the experience at Reale, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Abruzzo. Located in a stunning 16th-century former monastery surrounded by vineyards, it serves a very accomplished tasting menu with a deceptively simple cuisine that is elegant and intricate. The entire experience is impressive and memorable. For casual dining, Seisoletti is the place to go any day of the week.

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Is there anywhere else that you never miss visiting when you are back?

DS: No matter the season, we will always pass by Recco for an assorted takeaway of fried and oven-baked focaccette (savoury pastry) filled with squacquerone cheese. It's best enjoyed by the beach in the evening.

What do you always take back to Singapore with you when you leave Italy?

DS: Wherever and whenever possible, our luggage will be filled with preserves and jams that my mother has made and set aside for me, as well as some sweets and salami.

Where do you go to find authentic flavours of home where you live?

DS: We tend to cook at home when I’m craving for something from my region, since there isn’t a Genovese-focused restaurant in town. But for hearty or casual Italian cuisine, I’d visit our sister concept Amò for its high-quality pizzas and Italian comfort food. The rustic offerings at iO Osteria and Pietrasanta also hit the spot.

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