Cover A seat at Wing’s table
A seat at Wing’s table
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With Asia’s finest restaurants now at the forefront of global dining, the rest of the world is finally waking up to the region’s incredible talent—and frankly, it’s about time
For years, Asian cuisine got the short end of the stick: admired from a distance but rarely invited to sit at the top table. Street food stalls, hawker centres, dim sum trolleys—it was all delicious, of course, but never deemed worthy of the same white tablecloth reverence reserved for the dining rooms of Europe. Well, that delusion has been put to bed, and the world has finally realised what Asia has known all along: the region’s chefs are at the top of their game, leading a culinary revolution that’s impossible to ignore.
At Narisawa in Tokyo, Yoshihiro Narisawa has been quietly redefining fine dining with his Satoyama cuisine, crafting dishes that reflect Japan’s natural ecosystems and seasons. Now, with outposts like Narisawa Shanghai and Bees by Narisawa in Singapore, his commitment to sustainability and ingredient-driven cooking is thriving across the region. He proves that Asian cooking can be just as thoughtful and compelling as anywhere else—and perhaps even better.
Above Satoyama scenery by Yoshihiro Narisawa
Satoyama scenery by Yoshihiro Narisawa
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In Hong Kong, Vicky Cheng, of VEA and Wing, is doing something equally spectacular at Wing. He’s redefined what Chinese cuisine can be, and it’s no longer the underdog in the world of gastronomy. His contemporary dishes take the building blocks of traditional Chinese flavours and craft them into something that sings, rather than shouts. The result? World-class food that now extends beyond Hong Kong, with his Bangkok venture, K by Vicky Cheng, continuing his exploration of Chinese culinary traditions.
In case you missed it: First look at Vicky Cheng’s new openings Medora and Liz & Tori on Wellington Street
Above Wing’s Japanese oyster and century egg in housemade chilli sauce
Wing’s Japanese oyster and century egg in housemade chilli sauce
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Then there’s Gaggan Anand. Yes, the same Gaggan who, in Bangkok, has shifted the perspective of Indian food in the modern world with bold flavours, loud music and lots of emojis. But peel back the showmanship, and what you find is a chef deeply connected to the essence of his heritage. His influence extends across Asia with Gohgan in Fukuoka, his collaboration with Takeshi Fukuyama, and a partnership with Louis Vuitton in Bangkok. If anyone can convince you that Indian food deserves a place at the highest echelon of dining, it’s him.
Above Asparagus flower above dish
Asparagus flower above dish
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Korean food is also basking in global fame, thanks in part to the unstoppable rise of Korean entertainment. Sung Anh of Mosu, who gained wider recognition on Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars, is at the forefront of this movement. And while his Seoul flagship is currently in flux, Mosu Hong Kong holds the line as a temple of minimalist Korean cuisine, with all its heart, heritage and deep-rooted flavours.
See also: From Mosu’s kitchen to Netflix fame: Anh Sung-jae on Korean culture and life in the spotlight
Above Abalone taco
Above Black sesame tofu
Abalone taco
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Asia’s best chefs aren’t waiting around for recognition—they’re grabbing it with both hands and rewriting the rules of fine dining in the process. They’re pushing boundaries with artistry and precision that’s forcing the rest of the world to sit up, pay attention and wonder how they’re ever going to keep up.
A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
