Cover Chef Takeshi Fukuyama, fondly known as Goh-san
Chef Takeshi Fukuyama, fondly known as Goh-san
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Following the closing of his acclaimed restaurant, La Maison de la Nature Goh, the Japanese chef shares what his two new restaurants are all about
When the esteemed French-Japanese restaurant, La Maison de la Nature Goh, bade farewell in October 2022, a pang of loss was felt by many in Fukuoka and beyond. After all, this establishment had consistently graced Asia's 50 Best Restaurants list since its debut in 2002. However, chef Takeshi ‘Goh’ Fukuyama hasn’t skipped a beat, working on chef collaborations across Japan, as well as in Macau, and his new dining ventures: Goh and GohGan.
Nestled within the culinary and entertainment hub of Canal City Hakata's 010 Building, these two establishments promise something new from Fukuyama. GohGan, located on the first floor, is a restaurant in collaboration with the illustrious Indian chef, Gaggan Anand of Bangkok's Gaggan, which ranked #5 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023. It is a 54-seat restaurant that faces an open kitchen with more seats on the terrace overlooking the river. For those seeking a more intimate dining experience, Fukuyama's own establishment, Goh, awaits on the third floor with just one table and 14 seats.
To find out more, we took a moment to delve into Fukuyama's journey post-La Maison de la Nature Goh, his culinary metamorphosis, and what we can expect from the two restaurants.
In case you missed it: A food lover’s guide to Fukuoka, Japan
Please tell us a bit more about Goh and GohGan.
Goh offers an omakase-style tasting menu. The original [La Maison de la Nature] Goh had a counter and the idea behind that was to make it easier for people, including myself as a chef, to communicate and connect with each other. But, because of the pandemic—and Japan’s strict restrictions during this time—it proved difficult to continue. The new Goh has a sharing table so that, once again, people can connect. The menu is based on French cuisine but it includes some of the things that I think taste good, so the cuisine is quite fluid and free.
At GohGan, we decided to go with a different design and concept. It’s a bigger restaurant where people can just walk in. There’s no counter and more dining tables. The menu is a la carte so guests can feel more comfortable and free to enjoy it however they want. The cuisine is a collaboration between me and Gaggan, so it is French-Indian and Japanese, a blend of our cuisines and styles.
Given your experience blending different cuisines, how do you create well-balanced dishes?
It’s not easy. At GohGan, some customers have told me some dishes are too spicy. So, even now, I’m still figuring it out and adjusting, while incorporating my own style in it too. I care about and listen to our customers. I use this to work it out.
Above Chefs Takeshi Fukuyama and Gaggan Anand met in 2013
Chefs Takeshi Fukuyama and Gaggan Anand met in 2013
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A lot of chefs prefer not to call their cuisine fusion. How do you view your own cuisine?
For me, I don’t think it’s fusion. It’s about cuisine becoming borderless. It used to be the case that Japanese chefs can only use Japanese ingredients, or that French chefs can only use French ingredients. Now, everyone—thanks to social media—is open to more things. They can discover new and different ingredients from other countries or connect with different people.
Are you looking to blend any other cuisines into your own?
Yes. I think about it whenever I travel or visit new places and taste new dishes. For example, I have some ideas from my recent trip to Macau. This happens every time I travel. And when I don’t travel, I look at social media and get some ideas and then I want to explore more. I’m very open to learning about and bringing in other cuisines.
Above Abalone dish taken at a collaboration dinner in Macau (Photo: Fontaine Cheng)
Above Coconut crab curry and noodles dish taken at a collaboration dinner in Macau (Photo: Fontaine Cheng)
Abalone dish taken at a collaboration dinner in Macau (Photo: Fontaine Cheng)
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How are you feeling in this new era of your culinary career?
I’m about 50 now and I was running La Maison de la Nature Goh for 20 years. The old Goh [restaurant] was well known, I didn’t have to worry about too much. Customers came in every night and it was full. Now, I have to rebuild everything. GohGan is a bigger space and I also have to take care of the new Goh. I feel like a fresh chef, I’m starting all over again. It’s a new Goh.
What are the signature dishes at Goh or GohGan?
The abalone with seaweed powder and shiitake mushroom is a signature for Goh and one of the signatures at GohGan is the coconut crab curry with tossed noodles in scallion oil.
What keeps you inspired and excited about your work in the kitchen?
Every day, I meet new people and customers, and I want them to be happy. That’s a key point for me. That’s why I go back to the kitchen every day. I am still learning so I welcome feedback and do my best to improve. I learn and get inspired by small things, even meeting you. It's a new thing for me. New experiences are the inspiration.
A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
