Beyond the technical definition, we asked some of the Philippines’ best chefs what it truly takes for them and their peers to be deserving of the title
The chef–what was once a blue-collar profession, has now become one often associated with accolades, stardom and the influencer effect. Foodies around the world idolise top chefs and flock to restaurants enthralled by the prospect of trying such talked-about menus.
Years of culinary school, practising how to perfect techniques, and hours in class working towards that degree certainly contribute to one's journey in the culinary world, however, a fancy degree does not ensure chef status, or cement your label as a one either. Many go through their internship or stage journey only to fold under the pressure—and sometimes horror—of a professional kitchen. On the flip side, a good number of celebrated chefs, are self-taught, having earned their title by rising through the ranks and simply educating themselves through reading, travelling, and then applying what they learned while hard at work on the job.
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The question remains—what qualities does one need to possess to be called a chef? As with most things, it really depends on who you’re asking. We consulted some of the Philippines’ best, and they offer both technical explanations as well as the more intangible requirements of the job. “Essentially, it is someone who heads a whole brigade,” explains Miko Calo (Metronome, Taqueria Franco). “A chef literally means ‘chief’ in the more basic meaning of the word. It means the chief of the kitchen.”
When Chele González (Gallery by Chele) first came to the Philippines already having worked in some of the most highly regarded restaurants in Spain, he was confused at the weight the title carried in the Philippines. “When I was studying in culinary school, it was not ‘big chef’ you know,” he says, pertaining to the celebrity status that seems to be attached to it. “To me, to be a chef means to be a cook. It could be the same, but it is a more formal term for someone who is the head of a kitchen.”
For someone who is mostly self-taught like Don Baldosano and is typically a one-man team in his progressive Filipino restaurant, Linamnam, he too is mystified by how casually it is bestowed upon “anyone that cooks good food.” To him, it is more about the intention. “Being a true chef isn’t just about finishing a degree nor is it just having a brigade of your own. To me, being a chef is someone who can create memories and stories through the food that they create.”
See also: 10 years of chef Chele González in the Philippines
