Cover Tsumura, Ayala Triangle Garden | Photo: @tsumuraph / Instagram
Tsumura, Ayala Triangle Garden | Photo: @tsumuraph / Instagram
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With second-generation proprietor Jasper Go at the helm of the Japanese restaurant, he explains that despite the new location and updated look, fans will be happy to know that very little has changed
Seasoned restauranteurs have candidly shared in the past that the secret to longevity—even more than good food and service—is consistency. Trends come and go. Opinions and tastes vary from person to person, but customers will keep returning to their favourite places expecting the same food and service that they had the last time.
Tsumura, a traditional Japanese restaurant that has just moved to its third location in Makati, is part of that revered circle known for its consistency and reliability. Their first restaurant was established in 1998, a 20-seater on Pasay Road (now Arnaiz Avenue) that offered quality sushi and sashimi, which at the time was difficult to come by. Eventually, they had to move into a larger space—on the second floor of an office building in Salcedo Village—to accommodate their growing following.
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Chef and part owner Michael Tsumura has always been hands-on and is omnipresent in daily operations, however, as more customers came, they needed someone to be more focused on operations. “I became involved in the mid-2000s,” second-generation owner Jasper Go explains, “as the restaurant became busier and they needed someone behind the scenes so that chef Tsumura could concentrate on his craft, the food, and his kitchen.”
Their office building location had its own charm, tucked away from view, so it feels like a secret shared only through word-of-mouth. They happily survived with this set-up, but eventually what used to be a cute quirk started to become a cause for concern. “Although we loved our former location, visibility was always an issue,” says Go. And while a loyal clientele kept the business going, the owners have always felt that they wanted to offer more access to chef Tsumura’s culinary prowess.
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Finding the right place to fit their requirements took a while; Go shared they finally found “the one” when they saw the new commercial development at Ayala Triangle Gardens. Unfortunately, or perhaps it was sheer luck, their endeavour was delayed due to the COVID pandemic, so construction only began in 2023. The modern Japanese design by interior designer Noel Bernardo of EC Studio is truly worth the wait, already being called by many as one of the most beautiful restaurant designs in Makati, if not the entire country. “We have worked with Noel Bernardo before on another project,” Go explains, “and we were confident that his concept for the new location will align with our vision of bringing traditional Japanese cuisine in a modern setting.”
The food, as Go points out, is just as it has always been—chef Tsumura’s classic interpretations of Japanese cuisine. “Chef Tsumura espouses the Japanese concept of Kanzen (meaning perfect or complete) in his craft,” he says. “Because there are very few ingredients in sushi—and basically just one for sashimi—the devil is in the details. Finding fresh and good quality fish, how the fish is sliced, using the right amount of ingredients, how much hand pressure to use in moulding the rice, and then putting it all together requires skills, dedication and years of practice.”
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And just as he was trained in Japan, chef Tsumura continues to oversee every aspect of his kitchen—from procuring the freshest seafood from the fishmonger in Japan to visiting the local markets daily to personally select the necessary local fish and produce. No detail is too small, and everything is deliberate. “Sous chefs and kitchen staff go through an apprenticeship period with chef Tsumura wherein the traditional Japanese ways of preparing and cooking are ingrained into them. Dining staff are taught proper placement of Japanese tableware and to use both hands when serving, among many others. Because even the smallest of gestures matter.”
Tsumura may be dressed in the latest fashion, but its refinement and substance remain deeply ingrained in tradition. While its spacious and modern dining room will surely get a lot of air time on social media, the meticulously prepared food and warm service are what the owners are counting on to keep their tables occupied. “There will always be new concepts out there, but we want to be the ‘tried and tested’ Tsumura that our customers keep coming back to. Their Japanese comfort food, if you will. We moved to a bigger and better location to provide an overall better dining experience for our customers.”
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
