Cover Andrea Zanella of A.zeta Kitchen (Photo: Daniel Adams)
Andrea Zanella of A.zeta Kitchen (Photo: Daniel Adams)
1 / 1
We speak to the seasoned chef about his favourite childhood recipes and what a day in his kitchen looks like
You may not be familiar with the name Andrea Zanella but you’ll definitely know the many Italian restaurants he has built up or been part of the opening team, from Nero Vivo and Zenzero to Sassorosso and Scalini’s. While Kuala Lumpur is now home to the 58-year-old, Zanella grew up in Vicenza, a city in the northeast of Italy.
Like many other Italian chefs, Zanella’s earliest memories of making pasta are with his mother. “She taught me how to make pasta the traditional way—with a rolling pin on the kitchen table,” he smiles.
While pasta machines have replaced rolling pins in the majority of restaurants, Zanella still holds on to pieces of his childhood in the form of a Bigolaro, a traditional hand extruder used to make handmade pasta. This machine, passed down from his family in Vicenza, stands in the middle of A.zeta Kitchen, the Italian restaurant in Bangsar Zanella and his wife own and run.
Above Andrea Zanella (Photo: Daniel Adams)
Above Bigoli pasta (Photo: Daniel Adams)
Andrea Zanella (Photo: Daniel Adams)
1 / 2
Noticing my gaze, the sporting chef makes his way to the Bigolaro, grabbing a piece of dough from the kitchen to demonstrate its use. “We have a bigoli pasta that we make in the machine. You put the pasta dough in and turn to squeeze it out,” Zanella enthuses, while sitting on the stool that is attached and spinning the handle at the top. As he finishes his sentence, thick strands of noodles appear from the bottom of the machine, collecting on a metal plate placed underneath.
While Zanella began his career in Italy, he travelled around the world from Switzerland to London before a headhunter approached him in 2000 with the offer to work in Malaysia. At the time, Scalini’s was on the prowl for a head chef. After a few years in Kuala Lumpur, Zanella was eventually asked to join Nero Vivo, which happened to be down the road from Frangipani, where he met his wife of 15 years, Carol Lim.
Above Taglierini with sea prawn tails (Photo: Norlman)
Taglierini with sea prawn tails (Photo: Norlman)
1 / 1
“I was working as front of house, and Andrea would come over often. Being in the same industry, we connected on many things, especially a love for wine,” Lim chips in. A large reason why Zanella remained in Kuala Lumpur was Lim, who is now front of house of A.zeta Kitchen.
Tucked within the bustling Jalan Kemuja, the doorless restaurant is relaxed and intimate, with the duo’s warm hospitality creating a cosy atmosphere. On the menu, one will find a collection of traditional Italian dishes, with a few modern touches from Zanella. “Being from Veneto, it is only natural that a lot of my dishes are from the region, but I do put my own twist on things,” he explains. These come in the form of intricate plating and ingredients used.
Don't miss: The best spots for high tea in the Klang Valley
Above Potato gnocchi with scallops (Photo: Norlman)
Above Pesto ravioli (Photo: Norlman)
Potato gnocchi with scallops (Photo: Norlman)
1 / 2
“My mum used to make the most incredible rabbit casserole with rosemary and potatoes, but it’s impossible to find good rabbit here due to size and fat content,” Zanella sighs. “I’ve tried to recreate this dish, as well as an artichoke and potato dish, but somehow, they’re never the same as hers."
While Zanella may not be able to source all the ingredients he would like, he does what he can to stay true to his roots. For instance, all the pastas are handmade in-house, the way he was taught in Veneto: "We only use duck egg yolks, as this brings extra richness, elasticity, and colour."
Depending on the type of pasta, 00, semolina, or a mixture of both flours are used. “If you use semolina flour, this results in a firmer bite. Using 00 flour results in a different bite with less snap,” he continues. He takes me through the different types of pastas, telling me that semolina is ideal for tagliolini and fettuccine, while he uses a mixture of both flour types for chitarra, pappardelle, and ravioli.
Above Mushroom ragout (Photo: Norlman)
Mushroom ragout (Photo: Norlman)
1 / 1
When asked about his favourite pasta on the menu, Zanella is quick to answer: “The bigoli with duck ragu, which comes from my city of Vicenza. It is made with gizzards, which makes it really gamey and strong.”
While most of his time is spent cooking for customers, Zanella tells me he still sometimes finds the time to whip up a quick pasta post-service for himself and Lim. “Sometimes, on weekends, we’ll get a nice piece of steak and cook it the way we want, right here,” Lim adds.
Having spent over 45 years in the kitchen, Zanella has never looked back. “To me, the satisfaction of seeing a whole chicken, breaking it down, and making it tasty is comparable to starting with a blank canvas, having some paint, and creating a beautiful painting."
NOW READ
5 simple tips to cook and eat more sustainably
Handmade egg noodles are Fifty Tales’ pride and joy
Inside 5 delightfully designed dessert spots in the Klang Valley
Topics
About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
