Cover From the modernist Southern-style architecture of the 1950s to the 1990s to the rich, traditional flavours of a Northern pho restaurant, this is a harmonious blend of past and present.
From the modernist Southern-style architecture of the 1950s to the 1990s to the rich, traditional flavours of a Northern pho restaurant, this is a harmonious blend of past and present.
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Nestled on an historically significant street in coastal Vung Tau, Thuy Nguyen Pho restaurant retains a timeless charm
From the modernist Southern-style architecture of the 1950s to the 1990s to the rich, traditional flavours of Northern pho, this pho restaurant is a harmonious blend of past and present.
Bacu Street (formerly Nguyen Thai Hoc), where Thuy Nguyen Pho is located, carries a fascinating story tied to Vietnam’s oil and gas industry.
In the early 1960s, Vietnam began collaborating with Soviet experts to explore its oil and gas potential. By 1966, the first eight Vietnamese students were sent to the Academy of Chemistry and Petroleum in Baku, Azerbaijan, for training. Two decades later, Vung Tau had become the nation’s oil and gas hub, rivalling the Azerbaijani capital. In recognition of this friendship, Vung Tau renamed Nguyen Thai Hoc Street to Bacu Street—just as Baku named a street after Vung Tau.
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Amid the city's busiest thoroughfare, Thuy Nguyen Pho stands as a peaceful, nostalgic retreat, its quiet elegance a stark contrast to the bustling energy outside.
Unique Southern house architecture
Above The façade of a mid-century modernist house from the 1960s.
The façade of a mid-century modernist house from the 1960s.
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The restaurant's architecture strongly reflects the modernist movement that flourished across Southern Vietnam from the 1950s to the 1990s. During this era, modernist architecture thrived in Saigon before spreading to cities such as Da Nang, Quy Nhon, My Tho, Vinh Long, and Can Tho. Defined by minimalism and functionality, these Vietnamese homes retained the essence of traditional Western modernism—typically stark, geometric structures—but with a fresh, distinctive vitality.
Saigon’s urban landscape is often associated with grand French colonial buildings, typically housing government offices. Yet, it is the modernist Southern homes—typically three to five metres wide and spanning three to five storeys—that dominate the city’s fabric. The architects of the time paid careful attention to form, space, materials, patterns, and colours, ensuring each home bore its own unique character. Notably, they also pioneered sustainable design, integrating open-plan layouts and skylights, transforming houses from enclosed spaces into airy, tropical sanctuaries that seamlessly connect with the outdoors.
Stepping into Thuy Nguyen Pho, diners immediately sense that this is no ordinary pho establishment. Its setting, steeped in the aesthetic of Southern modernist architecture, evokes a profound nostalgia.
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Modern Southern architecture preserved for more than half a century
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The restaurant’s green-tiled flooring, arched windows, and vibrant plastic curtain strings replacing traditional drapes all hint at a bygone era. A solid stone staircase, its sleek form subtly revealed rather than overtly embellished, stands as a testament to refined craftsmanship. The walls, adorned with white and blue ceramic tiles of 10–15 cm in diameter, further enhance the nostalgic charm. An iron ceiling fan and a square wooden cabinet—stacked with red and green cans of soft drinks—add the final touches of familiarity. These details, rich in memory and sentiment, affirm that this pho restaurant is not merely a place to dine but a living archive of Vietnam’s architectural and culinary heritage.
People bustled in and out on a Sunday morning, filling the restaurant with a vibrant yet unhurried energy. Among the patrons were small families—fathers gently coaxing their children with promises of small rewards for finishing their meal. Couples lingered, as if this pho restaurant was the first stop on a leisurely Sunday that stretched out ahead of them. A special group of guests had also arrived from Hue, visiting Vung Tau to collect their bride. On the recommendation of an acquaintance, they stopped at Thuy Nguyen for breakfast, adding to the rich tableau of daily life unfolding within its walls.
IIt took some time and quiet observation before the writer had the opportunity to speak with the owner and uncover the unique story behind this cherished establishment.
60 years of traditional pho
The writer sat down with Ms Nhung (born in 1966), one of seven siblings who now run the family business together. She shared that the restaurant was founded in 1964, when she was just two years old. Her mother, Mrs Bui Thi Thien (born in 1932), had moved south from Hai Phong with her husband. Longing for the flavours of her homeland, she opened a pho restaurant and named it Thuy Nguyen, after a district in Hai Phong.
Above The key to a good bowl of pho is the broth.
The key to a good bowl of pho is the broth.
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At its inception, the restaurant was far smaller than it is today—just a modest space where there is now only enough room for a pot of broth, a few cooking utensils, and a small iron cabinet. “Business was excellent back then,” Ms Nhung recalled. “The restaurant was always full. Later, the original owner of the house decided to sell and return to his hometown, which gave us the opportunity to expand. Since then, we have renovated several times, but the core architectural elements have remained unchanged.”
Having learned the art of pho-making from their mother at a young age, the siblings had mastered their craft before even reaching their teenage years. Now, with both parents passed on, they remain dedicated to preserving the family tradition. At Thuy Nguyen, only rare beef pho is served—eschewing trends such as beef balls and beef patties. The restaurant remains beloved for its signature combination: tender, chewy noodles, a clear yet richly flavoured broth, and thinly sliced beef cooked to perfection.
Above Ms Bui Thi Kim Cuc, daughter of Mrs Bui Thi Thien.
Ms Bui Thi Kim Cuc, daughter of Mrs Bui Thi Thien.
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A bowl of Thuy Nguyen pho wins over diners with its refined simplicity, a testament to the meticulous techniques passed down by Mr Thien to each of his children. From ingredient selection to preparation, no detail is overlooked. The most crucial element, however, is the broth. At Thuy Nguyen, the broth is simmered from bones and kept on the fire continuously from midday until the following morning, ensuring it remains clear and never turns sour. The result is a perfectly balanced flavour—neither too fatty nor too overpowering, yet irresistibly rich.
Next comes the pho noodles. At first glance, they appear different from those at other establishments. Upon inquiry, the writer discovered that they are sourced from a factory that eschews preservatives, which gives them a slightly ivory hue rather than a bright white appearance. This also lends them their unique texture—chewy and smooth, with a natural sheen. Once immersed in the broth, the noodles absorb the delicate flavours, achieving the ideal balance of softness and bite.
Above Ingredients such as rice noodles and beef are carefully selected and prepared.
Ingredients such as rice noodles and beef are carefully selected and prepared.
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Beef is the next ingredient that sets Thuy Nguyen apart. Both brisket and rare beef are hand-sliced by the owner. According to Ms Nhung, only by slicing the meat by hand can it achieve the delicate thinness required for the perfect texture and flavour—far superior to machine-cut beef. While the precision of hand-slicing is understandable, it is remarkable that it also enhances the taste. Perhaps it is the care and dedication of the cutter—the intangible “seasoning” that comes from years of experience. Each slice, as thin as paper and pale in colour, remains distinct in the bowl, holding its own against the rich broth rather than being overpowered by it.
A special delight awaits those who enjoy “chicken eggs” in their pho—a distinct Southern tradition. Egg cups consist of a bowl of broth infused with aromatics such as spring onions and spices, but with a single key ingredient: a fresh egg yolk. The heat of the broth gently cooks the outer layer while leaving the centre silky and molten. At Thuy Nguyen, the egg yolks are unique. When lifted with a spoon, they hold their round, golden form, appearing firm. Yet, the moment they are sipped, they melt effortlessly, releasing their rich, creamy texture.
To complete the nostalgic experience, the restaurant serves fragrant tea in aluminium pots, poured into small, slightly opaque glass cups—evoking the simplicity of a bygone era.
Above The pot of broth placed in the house is the original shop.
Above Thuy Nguyen Pho, opened in Vung Tau by Mrs Bui Thi Thien, a native of Hai Phong. The name was taken from a district in Hai Phong to honour her hometown
The pot of broth placed in the house is the original shop.
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The restaurant’s loyal patrons range from a 70-year-old man who has been dining here since his youth, to a woman in her forties who considers Thuy Nguyen the go-to place for gatherings with family and friends. For visitors from afar (such as this writer), a single visit is enough to know that every future trip to Vung Tau will include a return to this familiar spot.
Opening at six in the morning, Thuy Nguyen welcomes early risers, including schoolchildren heading to class. By two in the afternoon, the restaurant closes, and preparations begin for the next day’s service. This rhythm has remained unchanged for more than half a century—along with the time-honoured taste of its pho.
Above More than just a pho restaurant, Thuy Nguyen is a place where memories and traditions are cherished.
More than just a pho restaurant, Thuy Nguyen is a place where memories and traditions are cherished.
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Situated opposite the Vung Tau City Party Committee, in the heart of the bustling city centre, Thuy Nguyen Pho continues to exude an old-world charm. Amidst the rapid modernisation of its surroundings, the restaurant remains a peaceful, unpretentious sanctuary, much as it was on the day it first opened. For decades, the descendants of Mr Thien have preserved not only the traditional flavour of their pho but also the deeper value that makes this place truly special—the enduring bond of family, passed down through generations.
Credits
Photography: Son Thai Nguyen
