Sushi Ashino: How Taku Ashino introduced aged fish sushi to Singapore

In celebrating Sushi Ashino’s 10th anniversary, we draw back the curtains of the esteemed sushiya, where chef-owner Taku Ashino aims to elevate Singapore’s native catch to sashimi-grade excellence through shinkeijime

Ten years ago, whilst most of us were still convinced that “fresh” was the apex of sushi excellence, Taku Ashino was quietly orchestrating a sushi revolution in a corner of Chijmes. Armed with centuries-old Japanese techniques and the audacious belief that age, rather than youth, could be beautiful, the Japanese chef-owner introduced Singapore to jukusei (aged fish) sushi. A decade later, his restaurant Ashino, recently minted at Club Street, now stands as a firm favourite amongst some of the most discerning sushi gourmands in Singapore.

Watch our exclusive behind-the-scenes short film featuring a day in the life of chef-owner Taku Ashino, where ancient techniques meet modern mastery in Singapore’s most contemplative sushi sanctuary

Above How Taku Ashino introduced aged fish sushi to Singapore

The Shinkeijime situation

The cornerstone of Ashino’s philosophy lies in shinkeijime, a precision technique used to swiftly dispatch fish, pioneered by the highly sought-after fish supplier Hiroki Hasegawa from Kanagawa Prefecture. “Without shinkeijime, all fishes feel stressed when they die,” Ashino explains with the matter-of-fact delivery of someone who has spent years perfecting what others might dismiss as impossible. For the uninitiated, this spiking technique helps preserve the fish’s optimal flavour, texture, and colour by delaying rigour mortis, the main cause of toughened muscles and joints, and extirpating the nerves of the spinal cord to thwart the development of lactic acid and cortisol.

Consider the transformation of the stingray. What was once fishermen’s waste is now a prized delicacy. “In the beginning, nobody would buy it, so it was free,” Ashino recalls. “The stingray liver is one of the richest umami ingredients, but without shinkeijime, it isn’t edible because of the high levels of ammonia in its blood.” Through shinkeijime, Hasegawa elevated the discarded to something rather divine, which, through this special relationship, blossomed into one of the hallmarks of Ashino’s philosophy.

Above Taku Ashino found his true calling for sushi-making at the age of 23

Taku Ashino found his true calling for sushi-making at the age of 23

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Becoming a sushi sage

Ashino’s path to mastery is quite literally a modern-day Buddhist parable. At 20, he abandoned university for a 1,500-kilometre pilgrimage across Japan, sleeping under stars and seeking truths that couldn’t be found in textbooks. A chance encounter with a fisherman affected by Minamata disease became an enlightened moment, where he realised that modernity’s conveniences carry hidden costs, and that true artistry lies in harmony with nature.

While he enrolled back into university, it was only until he undertook a part-time job at a sushi restaurant that he found his true calling; sushi-making resonated deeply, and at 23, he committed himself to the craft that ultimately makes him a sushi sage.

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Above The prized kohada (gizzard shad) requires ten days of meticulous salting, vinegar curing, and controlled ageing

The prized kohada (gizzard shad) requires ten days of meticulous salting, vinegar curing, and controlled ageing

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In Ashino’s temperature-controlled sanctuary, the varieties of fish are treated with patience and the utmost respect. His kohada (gizzard shad) requires ten days of meticulous salting, vinegar curing, and controlled ageing. Buri (yellowtail) surrenders to two weeks of transformation. Some fish mature for up to 40 days, longer than most online shopping deliveries. “When fish is freshly caught, the breakdown of ATP in the muscle tissue creates inosinic acid, a compound responsible for the savoury richness known as umami,” expounds Ashino, diving into technicalities. “Through ageing, the level of inosinic acid can increase, creating a smoother, more delicate flavour profile.”

Even the house blended shoyu, one that has been continuously refined from the original batch since opening, is treated with reverence, like a prized cuvée of sorts. It is applied to every piece of marinated akami (lean bluefin tuna), where Ashino serves it to all guests as the premiere to kickstart a course, carrying the weight of his entire culinary journey thus far.

Above The shinkeijime technique helps preserve the fish’s optimal flavour, texture, and colour

Above Sushi Ashino moves to Club Street after a decade at Chijmes

The shinkeijime technique helps preserve the fish’s optimal flavour, texture, and colour

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Adjusting the Edomae mentality

Ten years have passed in what feels like a blink. “10 years went by so fast,” Ashino reflects, particularly given the crucible of Covid-19 that tested every restaurateur’s resolve, where he offered free futomakis to healthcare workers in Singapore. His next frontier? To cast a spotlight on Singapore’s very own waters. “I believe that the Edomae spirit is to respect the local ingredient,” he affirms, invoking the original philosophy of Tokyo Bay’s sushi masters.

It’s a bold evolution to apply centuries-old Japanese techniques to local fish, challenging the high-end dining scene’s reflexive preference for imported ingredients. Through shinkeijime, Ashino believes he can elevate Singapore’s native catch to sashimi-grade excellence, proving that terroir extends beyond land to sea. At the time of writing, Ashino now incorporates local sashimi as a complimentary segment of the sushi omakase in hopes of educating the open-minded.

Sushi Ashino

Japanese | $ $ $ $ |