Shinji by Kanesaka

There was a time when conveyor belt sushi would probably have sufficed for some diners here. With our evolving palates and consistent supply of seasonal produce from Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market, we are now fortunate to be able to revel in pristine fish and seafood on our sushi and sashimi platters.

Since Shinji by Kanesaka opened its first overseas outpost at Raffles Singapore in 2010, impressing diners with its immaculate Edo-style sushi, a few other Japanese chefs have jumped on the bandwagon by setting up sophisticated sushi outfits here. Chef Shinji Kanesaka, who owns a two-Michelin-starred sushi temple in Ginza, Tokyo, and his local partners too realised the growing demand for high quality sushi. Two years later, they launched a second outlet at OUE Tower in the CBD, which has relocated to an elegant space at The St. Regis Singapore in March this year.

Master chef Koichiro Oshino and head chef Shunsuke Kikuchi, both hand-picked and trained by Kanesaka, continue to helm the kitchens in Singapore. Along with their native Japanese team, they turn out the freshest fish and seafood items and serve them omakase (chef’s selection) style to guests who sit around the long counter.

The sake bar counter is made from an old red oak tree

Kanesaka’s Singapore partner and managing director Joni Ong shares: “Shinji by Kanesaka at The St. Regis Singapore was visualised by Japanese interior designer Junzo Irikado as a delicate yet lively “house”—one enters via a natural tiled and pebbled walkway lit by floor lamps—very typical of garden-surrounded homes in Japan.” Near the entrance is the sake bar counter, carved from the trunk of a 400- to 500-year-old Karin (red oak) tree, which originated in Myanmar or Thailand but was nurtured and grown in Japan. This is where guests can have pre-meal drinks or even enjoy a hearty chirashizushi bowl at lunchtime.

The main room boasts a 16-seater sushi counter made of hinoki, a natural beauty of the 300-year-old Japanese cypress tree from the Wakayama prefecture juxtaposed with the boldness lent by the expansive sake and wine cellars spanning an entire wall. Pointing to the panel artwork above the sushi counter, Ong adds: “Twelve beautifully carved panels tell a lovely tale of a bird moving across the four seasons, with special emphasis on sour plum, the fruit of spring, and autumn gourd.”

Beyond the aesthetics of the interiors, the art in sushi-making takes centrestage. Thanks to the chef’s dexterous master stroke, the items here are impeccably crafted. “I want to create sushi that is well balanced, like the Chinese character for ‘one’. The start of the stroke, the whip of the brush, the end of the stroke—all must be well balanced,” tells Kanesaka. The master chef, who comes to Singapore about four times a year, was actively involved in the setting up of this new restaurant and communicated his ideas to the interior designer who’s also based in Tokyo.

Aji (Japanese horse makerel) sushi 

According to Ong, the chefs plan and order specifically for their fish and seafood supplies from Tsukiji. Seafood is flown in from Tsukiji four times a week on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. For lunch, sushi sets priced at $125 for 12 pieces or $180 for 15 pieces include a variety of nigiri sushi, maki sushi, miso and clam soup and dessert. The omasake dinner sets start at $300. In June and July, guests can look out for seasonal items including ayu (sweet fish), hamo (conger eel), ise ebi (Japanese lobster), hoya (sea cucumber) and oasari (big clam).

Toro (tuna belly) sushi

A procession of flawlessly executed sushi arrives at our table. A sliver of glistening toro is elegantly draped over a mound of vinegared rice that’s still slightly warm. No extra seasoning is needed as soy sauce has already been brushed onto the sushi.

Memorable items include the quintessential otoro in all its fatty, succulent glory, and the uni—a generous portion of incredibly sweet, creamy, bright orange sea urchin crowns the rice. We also savoured the lightly grilled unagi or eel dabbed with sweet sauce, as well as horse mackerel brightened up with finely chopped spring onions. While it could be down to individual preference, I felt that some of the pieces had a touch too much wasabi, but that was the only downside of the whole meal.

In between courses, you’ll watch the chefs work methodically in their culinary theatre, slicing the fish with precision and in unspoken unison. When the final item is served and the last drop of sake is sipped, you know that you’ve experienced some of the best sushi in town.

Shinji by Kanesaka. The St.Regis Singapore. 29 Tanglin Road. Tel: 6884 8239.