Cover A taste of Lebanon in Hong Kong

We speak to the chef who hopes to share Lebanon’s flavour and heritage with a wider audience in Hong Kong

Nestled atop Glenealy, away from Soho and Lan Kwai Fong crowds, Middle Eastern restaurant Sumac has been a beloved fixture in the city’s dining scene for over a decade—a remarkable feat for any venue in Hong Kong. Recently renovated, we took this chance to get to know the head of culinary, Nadim Hamze, to find out more about what’s on the menu, along with the influences and inspirations that extend beyond the confines of his kitchen.

Hamze’s journey began in the kitchens of Lebanon’s hotels and restaurants before he ventured to Hong Kong in 2005. Armed with over three decades of experience, Hamze now sets his sights on sharing the treasures of his Lebanese heritage with a wider audience in Hong Kong by combining traditions with a diverse range of techniques, both ancient and modern.

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Tatler Asia
Above The recently revamped Sumac

In your own words, how would you describe the cuisine at Sumac?

Sumac offers authentic Lebanese cuisine and is known for its delicious blend of flavours, including tasty mezza, grilled meats, flatbread and seafood. It’s a celebration of fresh, flavoursome ingredients, as well as the heritage and diverse cultural influences of Lebanon.

Do you have a favourite dish from Sumac’s revamped menu?

The hummus is a classic, but we have added a contemporary twist to this traditional dish. Crafted with freshly puréed chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil, our hummus has a creamy and velvety texture with a subtle hint of smokiness. What sets it apart is the addition of sumac, lending a burst of colour and flavour to the dish. 

What new things can we expect on the menu at Sumac?

Guests can anticipate delights like the shrimp fatteh, which is rooted in tradition; pistachio mafroukeh, with rich pistachio flavour, subtle sweetness from semolina paste, and homemade ashta [a thick clotted cream].

Who has been the biggest influence on you professionally to date?

Auguste Escoffier. The contributions and teachings of Escoffier have informed both my perception and practice of my craft, moulding it in ways more profound than I had ever imagined.

Which book do you think every chef should read?

Every chef should read Larousse Gastronomique. It is a monumental piece of culinary wisdom, covering everything from recipes to preparation techniques, cooking terminology and the history of world cuisine. Undoubtedly, this text equips every chef with an understanding and appreciation of the culinary arts, enriching their ability to create multidimensional dishes.

Which chef would you most like to cook with—dead or alive?

I’m inspired to cook with Alain Ducasse because of his humble and perpetually curious nature, which defies the “celebrity chef” stereotype. His humility, despite his unmatched achievements, is as compelling as his culinary prowess.

What is the one ingredient you can’t live without?

Sumac is an indispensable ingredient in our cuisine. With its tangy, lemony flavour, it contributes a distinctive taste to our dishes. Widely utilised in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines, it’s sprinkled over salads and meat platters, and it is also used in the spice blend za’atar, which is used to season a variety of Lebanese delicacies. It is an adaptable and flavourful spice, with a rich history and extensive range of uses.

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Above Nadim Hamze, head of culinary at Sumac

What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten at?

One of the best restaurants I’ve had the pleasure of dining at is Babel Restaurant in Lebanon. The innovative dishes, exceptional service, and unique blend of traditional and modern Lebanese cuisine are truly remarkable.

What is your favourite food city or foodie travel destination?

Growing up amid the lively streets and diverse flavours of Beirut, my childhood was marked by aromatic souks and family gatherings centred around Lebanese delicacies. Now, based in Hong Kong, I draw on the vibrant memories of my hometown, infusing the pure spirit of Beirut into Sumac, to offer a taste of Lebanon.

It’s your last meal—what’s on the menu?

An amazing tabouleh would be my ultimate dish. It goes beyond being merely a delicious and healthy dish but it's also a nostalgic flavour that soothes with the cosiness of home.

Sumac
Middle Eastern   |   $ $ $ $

G/F, 8 Glenealy, Central, Hong Kong

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Fontaine Cheng
Regional Dining Editor, Tatler Hong Kong
Tatler Asia

A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.

She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.

Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes