Cover Rani Jarkas of Sumac Restaurant and Lounge (Photo: Affa Chan/Tatler Hong Kong)
Rani Jarkas of Sumac Restaurant and Lounge (Photo: Affa Chan/Tatler Hong Kong)
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Rani Jarkas is one of the key figures behind the venue, which reopened in April this year after a seven-month renovation. Here, Jarkas shares what lies ahead
Let’s start from the beginning. What brought you to Hong Kong?
Hong Kong has always been one of my favourite cities in the world. I used to travel here frequently for business and leisure, and it always reminded me of Beirut—with its bustling streets, terrains and authentic eateries on narrow streets. I quickly grew an attachment and connection to Hong Kong, because of its familiar warmth and energy. I moved here 12 years ago.
How did you get into the restaurant business?
I have a deep attachment to my home country of Lebanon. One of the things we are most proud of as a country is our cuisine. Lebanese culture is deep and rich, and its cuisine resembles its culture and diversity. Sumac was always my favourite Lebanese restaurant in Hong Kong, and I wanted to invest in the restaurant and bring this passion of mine to the next level. It’s my mission to educate people about Lebanese cuisine and culture in Hong Kong, especially those that aren’t familiar with it. Major cities like London, Paris and Melbourne offer a wide range of Lebanese cuisines, from cafés to high-end restaurants, and I am confident that Hong Kong can do the same.
Sumac opened in Hong Kong 13 years ago. Why did the team decide to open here in the first place?
Nadim Hamze, who is Sumac’s managing director and head of culinary, has always loved the culinary arts. He worked in numerous reputable restaurants across Lebanon, including at five-star hotels, then decided to move to Hong Kong for a work opportunity. Unfortunately, none of the Lebanese food he ate here lived up to his memories of Lebanon, and so he decided to open Sumac in 2010 to share authentic Lebanese food in a more elevated and refined way.
What sets Sumac apart from other Lebanese restaurants in Hong Kong?
Despite Hong Kong not having a large Middle Eastern population, Lebanese food and its traditional flavours and unique spices continue to be loved—and not only within the Middle Eastern community. What sets us apart is our authenticity, quality of ingredients and level of hospitality. When you are at Sumac, we hope you feel transported to Lebanon through the dining experience, culture and generosity.
How are you going to bring Sumac to the next level with your relaunch?
After more than a decade in the business, it was time for a facelift. We have upped our game in all aspects. We offer the largest variety of Lebanese wines in Asia, in addition to other special Mediterranean wines. We also have arak [a distilled Levantine spirit] and make innovative cocktails using Mediterranean herbs and spices. We have expanded the menu too, adding traditional dishes with local ingredients imported from Lebanon—like tahini, olive oil, halloumi and cracked wheat. The beauty of Lebanese food is that there is truly something for every palate.
The arches and shapes in the restaurant are traditional Phoenician [the ancient civilisation of Phoenicia] designs. We’ve used a lot of materials to showcase our culture too, like stone, mother of pearl, wood and brass. We also commissioned a DJ in Lebanon to create a special mix of music for our restaurant and lounge.
Which dishes on the menu are special to you?
I love all the dishes, but for me, I love Lebanese toum [garlic sauce]. There is an art to preparing it, and it goes beautifully with our food. Pairing this with our charcoal grill chicken is so simple—yet it is so unique in its flavour. I also love the samkeh harra [spicy fish]— it has tahini sauce, which I love. These traditional flavours transport me back to my childhood, where I would have dinner at my grandparents’ house in Beirut, surrounded by love.
What are some misconceptions people have about Lebanese cuisine in Hong Kong?
People often dine in Lebanese restaurants thinking they are eating authentic Lebanese food. However, the offerings are a mix of Moroccan, Greek and Egyptian cuisines. There is a big difference in spices, ingredients, preparation methods and flavours. Many people think of Lebanese cuisine as fast food—falafels, kebab and wraps—[it’s so much more than that].
Do you see similarities between Phonecian and Chinese cultures?
Both Phoenician and Chinese cultures have very long histories. I see this similarity every day—whether it’s watching a table of three generations of family members sharing a meal, or ingredients like sesame, which is used in the food of both cultures. The cuisines are both light, clean and fresh. Respect for elders is another common trait that we have. Long meals surrounded by laughter and good food are what truly bring both cultures together.
What’s next for Sumac?
We plan on expanding in the Greater Bay Area with different concepts and styles of Lebanese cuisines. Stay tuned.
As Content Director at Tatler Hong Kong, Tara shapes the brand's editorial vision across social, digital and print, and reports on Asia's most influential figures — from CEOs and leaders across business, style and the arts. In her dual role as Head of VIP, she also drives the planning and execution of Tatler's flagship IPs, curating star-studded events and building the relationships and communities that define the brand. Born and raised in the Middle East, she honed her craft in Dubai, crafting communication strategies for luxury brands across the Gulf. Follow her on Instagram @tarasobti.
