Cover Chef Gaurav Kuthari (Photo: Chaat)
Chef Gaurav Kuthari (Photo: Chaat)
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We speak to the culinary mind who's opening the next chapter for a celebrated South Asian institution
Since its opening in May 2020, Chaat has remained one of the hardest tables to book in Hong Kong—a trend that looks set to continue even with the departure of head chef Manav Tuli to open Leela. In his place, chefs Gaurav Kuthari and Dhiraj Kumar, both of whom trained extensively under Tuli, have stepped up to helm the tandoor, with new dishes like Lehsuni salmon tikka and tandoori quail enticing both regulars and new converts alike.
With Kuthari having settled into his new role, we sat down with him to get to know the Indian culinarian a bit better.
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Why did you decide to move and call Hong Kong home?
When I landed here in 2011, I did not expect to call Hong Kong my second home. I personally enjoy this world-class city because of its diversified and vibrant work culture. I am glad to be working with people from different cultures and backgrounds, and to have the opportunity to learn from world-class chefs.
What is it about Indian cuisine that you love?
As an Indian we have a diverse culture in every single state around the country, and we celebrate every occasion with good food, drinks and lots of sweets. For me as a chef, I love to play with the ingredients and always learn from them, as almost all traditional Indian food makes great use of fresh ingredients. We always make our food from scratch and ensure that the cooking involves negligible use of preservatives for healthier food that can be consumed by anyone. Indian cuisine is known for its abundance of vegetarian dishes due to a rich history of vegetarianism influenced by religious and cultural practices. [The cuisine is] also known for its spice factor, richness in taste, balance and its exquisite flavour.
Who has been the biggest influence on you professionally to date?
I am particularly inspired by chef Manish Mehrotra—he was executive chef at [Indian hospitality group] Old World Hospitality where I trained, and now his restaurant Indian Accent in New Delhi is one of the honourees on the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants list. He elevated Indian cuisine through his creativity and has become a role model for chefs of the current generation.
Above Spices galore at Chaat (Photo: Handout)
Above The lamp chop Nihari at Chaat (Photo: Handout)
Spices galore at Chaat (Photo: Handout)
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Which book or movie do you think every chef should read or watch?
Lessons in Excellence from Charlie Trotter. This book delves into these themes and the personal journey of [American chef and restaurateur] Charlie Trotter, his impact on the culinary world, and the lasting legacy he left behind. It serves as a source of inspiration for me as a chef, providing lessons in excellence, creativity, and the pursuit of culinary greatness.
Which chef would you most like to cook with—dead or alive?
I would like to cook with chef Ranveer Brar. He is one of the judges of MasterChef India and a YouTuber. I enjoy watching his YouTube videos—he is a great chef and also a good storyteller as he always shares the history of traditional dishes.
What is the one ingredient you can’t live without?
Salt! It's an essential ingredient in culinary preparation as it has the ability to enhance flavours and balance out the taste of dishes. Salt also plays a crucial role in the process of food preservation, and it can even help in tenderising certain ingredients. While it's important to use salt in moderation for health reasons, its impact on flavour is undeniable, and many chefs consider it a staple in their kitchens. So for me there is nothing without salt in the kitchen.
What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten at?
In 2022, we went to a Michelin event in Abu Dhabi and I had the chance to eat at Tresind Studio while in Dubai. It's highly regarded for its innovative and modern Indian cuisine, creative presentation, and the immersive dining experience. The exceptional flavours, meticulous attention to detail, and impeccable service truly made this a memorable meal.
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Above Samosa patties being made by frying in oil. Street market near Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi, India (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Chaat's signature dum biryani (Photo: Handout)
Samosa patties being made by frying in oil. Street market near Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi, India (Photo: Getty Images)
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What is your favourite foodie travel destination?
Old Delhi is a fascinating foodie destination for me. The city is renowned for its vibrant street food scene, with iconic dishes like chaat, kebabs, and parathas. Exploring the bustling lanes of Chandni Chowk and sampling the local delicacies is always a delightful and unforgettable experience. The rich culinary heritage and the diverse flavours of Old Delhi make it a popular destination for food lovers seeking authentic Indian street food.
There's also Bikaner in Rajasthan, India. Bikaner is particularly famous for its snacks and sweets, including the famous Bikaneri bhujia, a savoury, deep-fried snack made from gram flour and spices. Other popular dishes from Bikaner include rasgulla (soft cheese dumpling in a sweet syrupy ), kachori (deep-fried pastry filled with spicy lentils), and ghevar (a sweet disc-shaped dessert).
It’s your last meal—what’s on the menu?
I would love to have my "Maa ka khana", which means "mother's cooking" in Hindi. It represents the love, care, and comfort that comes with a homemade meal prepared by my mother. The specific dishes can be simple: dal (lentils), roti, sabzi (vegetable curry), rice, and sweet kheer (a pudding of milk, jaggery and rice). It's the warmth and affection of my mother's cooking that makes it a meal that I cherish.
And, of course, biryani. Whether it's a classic chicken biryani, a spicy Hyderabadi biryani, or any other variation, biryani is a special dish that is a must for my last supper.
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Gavin Yeung is a Hong Kong-based writer and was the editor at Tatler Dining. He has written across the realms of F&B, design, fashion and travel, with a focus on in-depth profiles and experiential features. Previously, he held editorial positions at Hypebeast, Soho House and Vogue Hong Kong. He’s also a keen photographer and aspiring home bartender, and is constantly thinking of original, Cantonese-inflected (and occasionally questionable) cocktails to shake up. Follow him on Instagram at @gaviny.
