The future has reserved a space for Asia’s remarkable culinary heritage, where innovation does not renounce its past but, rather, roots for it
Asia is home to some of the world’s oldest civilisations, and its diverse cultures have long told tales of tradition that are cherished and passed down through generations. Culinary traditions, in particular, continue to be shared and taught, connecting families and communities with each other, and their past, through good food.
Today, the guardianship of these traditions is a challenge underscored by the relentless march of modernity, particularly in Asia’s frenetic restaurant scene. But herein lies the culinary paradox—can the forward-thinking spirit of innovation be the champion of tradition? We asked five chefs in Asia, each with their own distinctive cuisine to share, how they do just that.
“My cuisine is where old meets new,” explains executive Chinese chef Jayson Tang of Man Ho Chinese Restaurant in Hong Kong. “I interpret traditional Cantonese fare while focusing on how to present classic flavours for modern diners.” Raised within the bustling atmosphere of a dai pai dong, a characteristically Hong Kong open-air street food venue, his introduction to the city’s culinary heritage started early. “This local dining culture is deeply rooted in my heart,” says Tang, who feels he has a duty to preserve the cuisine’s history and traditions. “We hope to keep these recipes going so that future generations have the chance to appreciate our culinary heritage.”
Tang is not alone in this convergence of tradition and innovation. Malaysian Chinese chef Raymond Tham, the co-founder of Beta in Kuala Lumpur, is executing something similar. His cuisine makes use of local ingredients and modern techniques to reimagine classic Malaysian flavours, drawing heavily from his multicultural heritage in the process. “We often had Indian or Malay foods on the table at home,” says Tham. “I guess that is what is unique about Malaysian cuisine.” Much like Tang in Hong Kong, Tham’s desire to maintain culinary traditions is evident at Beta. “Even though we are a modern fine-dining restaurant, we still make our own mooncakes and bak kua [meat jerky] by hand. We want to pass these traditions to our young chefs. We feel that the inheritance of knowledge is important to sustain our culture.”